Loneframer bustin out some new pics:thumbsup:
Now if we could only get him to sheet from the deck and use a house wrap.:whistling :laughing:
I don't like to cut all the plates prior to building. They just get in the way and end up getting knocked off the deck or built backwards.
Can't you find some money for a saw stand? :laughing:
At a minimum a set of horses.
Man that bending over gets old!![]()
two man crew,less hectic,closer tolerances,fewer jobs needed,and a lot more rewarding.
He just likes to work on his abs as he's working!
The method you use always depends on the size of the crew.Keeping everyone busy,yet out of the way.
On our past large crews.
One person layed out plates.
One or two did build up.(Headers,Jacks,cut cripples)
Low guy carring studs to position.
Two starting to nail walls together,low guy supplies headers etc.,pulling in anyone idle to lift walls.
Frame all exterior walls first,cross brace to plump,send someone to start sheathing,finish interior walls,straighten exterior walls while plumbing interior walls,tie in all top plates,straighten long exterior walls ,carry joist into position ...............
I'm tired just thinking about it....
Working with the same crew for weeks everything starts to go like clockwork.
Now we do a two man crew,less hectic,closer tolerances,fewer jobs needed,and a lot more rewarding.
Make life easy for your saw man, your ground man who nails the initial braces on, and your truss setters... all at once.
All the saw man has to do is whack up braces about 28-30 inches long. Scraps any length around there will do. Just so long as they are of a length to span one truss to the next.
All the ground man has to do is put one nail in close to one end of the brace. No measuring really necessary.
Give each setting man an accurately cut gauge piece. He hooks the arriving truss to the previously set truss with the gauge, close to where the brace is nailed. He then pivots the brace (or braces) waiting on the previously set truss up over top of the newly arrived truss, and fires away with the nail gun. No measuring nor aligning brace ends or marks necessary.
An additional benefit to this method is that the braces fly up pivoted down along the top chord of the truss, and are not likely to strike anything nor get knocked loose.
The gauge keeps everything accurate... AND it is left in place hanging on the "just set" pair while the next truss is on its way up. (Just a little added security) All your setting man does is slip it up off that pair, and hook the next set. All ready to nail again.
No one, anywhere, has to measure anything nor line up anything. It is super simple to just hook the gauge on.
One hazard to the braces fitting in between trusses, as the second poster here suggests, is that there is VERY LITTLE of the nail points penetrating either truss. Let your set man trip once and shift even half of his weight against the latest truss set, and he and that truss are likely to come down QUICK. All bracing nails should be in "shear"... never so they can slide right out of a side stressed truss.
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And just as a side note. You get caught ignoring that pink bracing sheet around here when setting trusses, and your butt could find itself in a BIG sling real quick. The local Big Brother frowns severely on that.
We usually layout 2x4 precuts and use those to brace up. Uses fewer nails, and less blocks to pick up after the roof is done. Usually our crane has a 3 way spreader, and that holds them in decent position until the precut is nailed. When it comes to setting trusses, I do not get in a hurry. If one nail lets go in the middle of our precut brace, the trusses will stay up. If one of those nails lets loose on those blocks????
Like you said though, to each his own. We have come up with many systems for framing in the 25 years I have been doing it. Our methods are a blend of new/old ideas and trial and error.
All the extra blocks lying around the floor were an irritation to me too. Once. I tried to get the guys to work with those pivoting braces nailed to the bottom of the top chord (just leave them in place) instead of the top. But it was a hassle to them, and I was also concerned about something falling on the braces, knocking them off. Decided it was worth the minor aggravation to leave the braces on the top. Much safer, and no sprained backs from trying to twist up under to nail.
Make life easy for your saw man, your ground man who nails the initial braces on, and your truss setters... all at once.
All the saw man has to do is whack up braces about 28-30 inches long. Scraps any length around there will do. Just so long as they are of a length to span one truss to the next.
All the ground man has to do is put one nail in close to one end of the brace. No measuring really necessary.
Give each setting man an accurately cut gauge piece. He hooks the arriving truss to the previously set truss with the gauge, close to where the brace is nailed. He then pivots the brace (or braces) waiting on the previously set truss up over top of the newly arrived truss, and fires away with the nail gun. No measuring nor aligning brace ends or marks necessary.
An additional benefit to this method is that the braces fly up pivoted down (or "up", your choice) along the top chord of the truss, and are not likely to strike anything nor get knocked loose.
The gauge keeps everything accurate... AND it is left in place hanging on the "just set" pair while the next truss is on its way up. (Just a little added security) All your setting man does is slip it up off that pair, and hook the next set. All ready to nail again.
No one, anywhere, has to measure anything nor line up anything. It is super simple to just hook the gauge on.
One hazard to the braces fitting in between trusses, as the second poster here suggests, is that there is VERY LITTLE of the nail points penetrating either end grain of the brace. (a very POOR area to hope will hold a nail) Let your set man trip once and shift even half of his weight against the latest truss set, and he and that truss are likely to come down QUICK. All bracing nails should be in "shear"... never so they can slide right out of a side stressed truss... and never just into end grain.
***********************************
And just as a side note. You get caught ignoring that pink bracing sheet around here when setting trusses, and your butt could find itself in a BIG sling real quick. The local Big Brother frowns severely on that.