Try cutting with a zip blade in a grinder. To get your patch to the right level I would use a combination of ½ and ¼ or 5/8 drywall to get it as close as possible. Tape and finish... then skim coat to get close to plaster finish.
drywall to plaster
Hey all
I am doing a reno on a 30 year old home that has plaster walls.Where I have to fill in when walls are moved is the best method to shim out the drywall to match the face of the plaster ,tape and skim to blend the two different finishes ? I am finding the hardest part is just cutting the mesh in the plaster neatly enough in the corners to avoid damaging the ceiling and making more work. A rain of blown in insulation is not on my bucket list. I have been using a metal blade in the sawzall for this , slow speed and careful pry bar use . Any plaster I've dealt with in the past is on the old narrow wood lathe so it all comes out . tia and yes I have my drywall guys cell number,though he is conveniently on his annual florida trip.
I am doing a reno on a 30 year old home that has plaster walls.Where I have to fill in when walls are moved is the best method to shim out the drywall to match the face of the plaster ,tape and skim to blend the two different finishes ? I am finding the hardest part is just cutting the mesh in the plaster neatly enough in the corners to avoid damaging the ceiling and making more work. A rain of blown in insulation is not on my bucket list. I have been using a metal blade in the sawzall for this , slow speed and careful pry bar use . Any plaster I've dealt with in the past is on the old narrow wood lathe so it all comes out . tia and yes I have my drywall guys cell number,though he is conveniently on his annual florida trip.
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The best way to cut wire is with a good drywall axe I can cut out a wall or repair and use my axe in the time it would take you to get your sawall out put a blade in it I would be done I also use a good pair of tin snips too
Never heard of or seen a drywall axe , have switched to my fein with a metal blade though I see how the axe could result in less fine dust.
I've done lots of repairs and replacements the way the OP described it. It works fine.... I usually use a sawz all with a demo blade.... It is messy however you do it. Have fun!
I have a new technique for cutting plaster for tie in work. It works especially nice when doing work in occupied homes. I have a Rockwell oscillating tool that I use with a flush cut wood/metal flush cut blade. I can also tape a 1 1/4" inch vacuum to it (when needed) with the hose nozzle about 1" from the blade underneath the tool. I added 2 discharge hoses to my small "shop vac" to discharge the dust outdoors. The tool works like a dream. I snap a chalk line and cut away. It is a little slower than some other techniques, but it leaves a super clean cut and almost zero dust in the house. My son tells me that the diamond blade works very well also, but I have not tried it. I'll post a couple pics next time I use it.
I find that oscillating blades don't get more than a few inches done before the teeth disintegrate. At $10+ a blade, no thanks.
IMO, a sawzall creates way too much vibration within the wall, which in my experience, for old plaster, is a bad thing. I have never tried the hatchet, but to get through the metal, I assume it would do the same.
Generally, I just bite the bullet, set up some ZipWalls, break out the vac and the grinder with a diamond blade. If you keep the nozzle right up to the blade it is doable. It's pretty dusty in that little plastic room, but it's the way I generally go.
IMO, a sawzall creates way too much vibration within the wall, which in my experience, for old plaster, is a bad thing. I have never tried the hatchet, but to get through the metal, I assume it would do the same.
Generally, I just bite the bullet, set up some ZipWalls, break out the vac and the grinder with a diamond blade. If you keep the nozzle right up to the blade it is doable. It's pretty dusty in that little plastic room, but it's the way I generally go.
I find that oscillating blades don't get more than a few inches done before the teeth disintegrate. At $10+ a blade, no thanks.
IMO, a sawzall creates way too much vibration within the wall, which in my experience, for old plaster, is a bad thing. I have never tried the hatchet, but to get through the metal, I assume it would do the same.
Generally, I just bite the bullet, set up some ZipWalls, break out the vac and the grinder with a diamond blade. If you keep the nozzle right up to the blade it is doable. It's pretty dusty in that little plastic room, but it's the way I generally go.
Thats strange Blue... I have a blade in mine right now that been in there a while and still gets it done. Just the typical Rockwell flush cut for wood/metal. It's probably cut a couple hundred LF of plaster and sheetrock. It has a few teeth nicked out from hitting nails but it's still cutting pretty good.
It will last 2 inches in a plaster wall around here. You will wear them toothless in 2 inches of hoarse hair plaster.Thats strange Blue... I have a blade in mine right now that been in there a while and still gets it done. Just the typical Rockwell flush cut for wood/metal. It's probably cut a couple hundred LF of plaster and sheetrock. It has a few teeth nicked out from hitting nails but it's still cutting pretty good.
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