It would depend on the length of the wall not just height. From what you said I would either stagger the joint. Or buy 10ft lengths of drywall
And do what with the 10ft lengths of drywall, stand them up so the tapered edge seams are vertical? I ran the boards so the tapered edged seams are horizontal and staggered the butt jointsIt would depend on the length of the wall not just height. From what you said I would either stagger the joint. Or buy 10ft lengths of drywall
Except Myron doesn't but his vertical seams on a stud. He cut's them between the studs and attaches backing, he claims it cuts down on the mud doing it that way. But the backing he uses also doesn't twist like studs do, and they are not attached to the building, so if the house moves or shrinks, the backing doesn't go with it. I wouldn't run sheets vertical while butting them on a stud, never know when a stud will twist or cup and cause a crack.if vertical is good enough for myron ferguson its good enough for me
Around here, we have to install plywood vertical to get adequate nailing around the edges for shear strength. But for drywall it shouldn't matter, unless the plans specify a shear nailing schedule for the drywall. On ceilings you install sheets perpendicular to the joists because you want the strength axis to be perpendicular to prevent sagging. Won't be any sagging on walls though.Trim
I would never install rock vertical in residential (no strength in my opinion- did you ever see plywood done this way?)
Probably a claim that would be difficult to substantiate except anecdotally.dry wall laid down makes stronger wall
i would've hired a drywall guy:thumbsup:I did a job a few months ago that had 10ft walls. We made sure the tapered edges met, so there was a 2ft tall piece that either want against the floor or the ceiling. Out of curiousity, what do most of you guys do? The guys that did the other units put the 2 ft piece in the middle.