Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A customer had me look at a 8'x7' bathroom today in a hundred year old house. there is some drywall and some plaster on the walls. All of the Lathe is still there. How would you reccomend I go about drywalling this room? Tear out all the Lathe and find the studs?

Any comments on what to expect from a project like this would be apreciatted.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,292 Posts
I would demo the plaster. If home owner won't go for the price just go over it and charge for the drywall.

Get a mini sledge and go to town. The dust is nasty so wear a mask.
 

·
DGR,IABD
Joined
·
9,683 Posts
Since I'm an electrician, I look at everything from the point of view of a wire. :)

Anyhow, if you intend to leave any of the electrical device boxes, at least remount them to the depth that they'll need to be at after your demo and re-drywalling. I suspect that you're gonna find this bathroom wired in K&T anyhow (hooked on with 1/2 the house, no doubt), so you'll be running the required new dedicated feed to this bath.
 

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The homeowner already bought the drywall, it's 5/8ths.

The electrical could prove a problem, as well as the plumbing now that think about it.

The homeowner doesn't want to pay for the demo. I suggested that It would be to their benifit and they would do it if I told them it was absolutely nessisary.

What would I fix the drywall to if I put it over the plaster? I am pretty sure that this building isd not 16" on center framing. This is where most of my hesitation comes from... lots and lots of unforseens at this old place...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,292 Posts
More than likely it will be on 16 centers. But if not. No big deal. Buy a stud finder with AC finder and you will be set. Never go blind with especially with K&T no plate protectors. But fasten the rock with 2"-2 1/4" drywall screws to the studs. The 1/4 inch rock would be the way to go. since they don't want to pay for demo. Forget about it and just cover it. There is no need to demo really Unless there was somethin in the wall you have to get to.

As for the plates get longer screws. No need to reset the boxes for 5/8".
 

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
JustaFramer said:
More than likely it will be on 16 centers. But if not. No big deal. Buy a stud finder with AC finder and you will be set. Never go blind with especially with K&T no plate protectors. But fasten the rock with 2"-2 1/4" drywall screws to the studs. The 1/4 inch rock would be the way to go. since they don't want to pay for demo. Forget about it and just cover it. There is no need to demo really Unless there was somethin in the wall you have to get to.

As for the plates get longer screws. No need to reset the boxes for 5/8".
Excellent. They will be happy to hear that. Thank you all.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,292 Posts
Your welcome. One more thing I spaced LOL was that you will need spacers for the the outlet and switches. For that get some tube metal at HD or welding shop and cut it to length.
 

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JustaFramer said:
Your welcome. One more thing I spaced LOL was that you will need spacers for the the outlet and switches. For that get some tube metal at HD or welding shop and cut it to length.
OK now you've lost me... I forgot to ask what K&T is. and what exactley are the spacers for?
 

·
Custom Builder
Joined
·
4,406 Posts
I see no one mentioned the proper method of hanging over, so why not me, secure 1x on the walls fastening to studs through existing and drawing up anything loose, 3/8s over, block tape and paint, go home, drink beer and beat the wife.......jk

Bob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,292 Posts
knob and tube wire. old school K&T is dangerous because it is usually spliced, taped, and tapped into without being covered in juction boxes.
Scratch the spacers I think I was over thinking again.

Bob
I have double layered 5/8" rock for lids to meet fire code so why is your method the proper method?
 

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The room is 8'x7' and 10' high. How much would you charge for a project like this? The customer has suplied all the drywall and we wouldn't be doing any mudding..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Glasshousebltr said:
I see no one mentioned the proper method of hanging over, so why not me, secure 1x on the walls fastening to studs through existing and drawing up anything loose, 3/8s over, block tape and paint, go home, drink beer and beat the wife.......jk

Bob
Bob,

Hey--can you clarify your post?? I am in the same boat--I have to rock over a plaster ceiling. Anything I should look out for? I was unsure where you mentioned fasten 1X. Fasten them over the plaster and then the rock to the 1X??

Thanks!

Richie
 

·
Dharma Building
Joined
·
81 Posts
Humble,
I'm with Mike on this one. Usually when homeowners want to cover the existing lath & plaster (particularly in a bath) its because the stuff has badly deteriorated. Usually, the plaster has started pulling away from the lath and the wall feels spongy. 1/4" drywall will show every wave and defect in the underlying lath & plaster. I just finished replacing doors in a house where drywall had been applied over existing lath & plaster and it was a real mess. The wall thickness varied by as much as 1" over the height of the door casings. Lots of fun making new jambs :eek: IMHO the additional cost of demo for the lath & plaster will be made up by all the trouble saved when it comes time to trim the room out. The other thing I absolutely hate about this approach is that it drastically alters the reveals on all of the trim elements. To me, a door or window casing that is practically flush with the wall looks really ugly. If you can convince the homeowners to go for the tear out you'll be doing them a service in the long run.
 

·
DGR,IABD
Joined
·
9,683 Posts
JustaFramer said:
As for the plates get longer screws. No need to reset the boxes for 5/8".
This is where I get a chance to talk about my pet peeve. The code does require that the electrical boxes be within 1/4" of the finished wall surface. If the box is set back in more than 1/4" (for whatever reason) you have to put on extension sleeves in the box and use longer screws. Do not simply use longer device screws with a bunch of washers or whatever piled up under the device ears. This does not meet code in any part of North America. If you're using 1/4" rock over the existing plaster, chances are that the device boxes will be set back deeper than 1/4" when all is finished. This necessitates the use of box extention sleeves. Sorry for the rant, but it goes toward a job well done. AND... not to push the issue, but it would really be a shame to remodel an old vintage bathroom and not have a new circuit run to it. If this bathroom does not have a window, it will also need mechanical ventillation (exhaust fan) added if it does not already have one.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,292 Posts
Mdshunk is right about the extension sleeves. I got confused about the sleeve thing. I helped a sparky once on a remodel in a way distant past.

If the wall's surface is ******************** I would demo it anyway. But this sounds like a git r done job. Personally I wouldn't fir out walls. Since bathroom demo is one of my fortays. I would strip and gut. Since it would take about the same time to properly fir out walls. Doing the demo is the proper way.

Also mdshunk brought up another issue ventilation. Since you are using sheet rock the moisture in that bathroom will screw up that rock unless the green is used. Nothing like a mold infested bathroom. Plus those hundred year old homes bath stay ripe for a while after the business is done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
if this were my job. i would reccomend demo to studs,replace any kt or suspect wireing'and hang blueboard+plaster.btw hepa resp and dustscreens are a must when demoing this stuff full of lead ,arsenic(was used to tan the hides ie,horsehair plaster) newer stuff may have asbestos.
 

·
Custom Builder
Joined
·
4,406 Posts
Yes on the attach, make sure you use long enough screw to hit the cieling joists and not just lath.

Bob

Richie-C said:
Bob,

Hey--can you clarify your post?? I am in the same boat--I have to rock over a plaster ceiling. Anything I should look out for? I was unsure where you mentioned fasten 1X. Fasten them over the plaster and then the rock to the 1X??

Thanks!

Richie
 

·
Custom Builder
Joined
·
4,406 Posts
Why do I call it the proper method? Because I feel it is, I've gone back to balloon frame remods I did over twenty years ago, and not a crack anywhere.

Besides, doesn't it just make good sence?

Bob
JustaFramer said:
knob and tube wire. old school K&T is dangerous because it is usually spliced, taped, and tapped into without being covered in juction boxes.
Scratch the spacers I think I was over thinking again.

Bob
I have double layered 5/8" rock for lids to meet fire code so why is your method the proper method?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top