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Discussion Starter #3
There was definately a little forthought that went into it. For starters you need to adapt the deck layout exactly on a 16inch interval. (for the panels to fit in the channel.

The system makes it hard to seal the U channel that fits underneath the joist, at the ledger.

All in all not all too bad of a system. I have been thinking about corrugated steel underneath, tell me that wouldn't be perfect. I need to try that one next.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes that is a seamless gutter that runs the length of the beam. The standard brown matched really well with the Trex Cayenne, and Trex Espresso deckboards. I think I burned up almost 50 12foot 1 by 12 on this one.

There is a concrete step and patio going underneath that landing on both sides.

There was no yard yet, so to stop from having mud everywhere I put down about 5 bails of straw before we started. It really really helped.

I also punch my holes after its framed, to each his own I guess.
 

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Nice job!
Did you wrap the bottom (visible) edge of the ledger before installing the DS?
And what was your process for waterproofing the ledger connection? I've done a few DS installs and am always looking for better ways...

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #7
On the ledger I sealed the top with OSI. Then I caulked over top of my joist to ledger connection, the top of the DS channel for about the first 2 foot, around most of the hanger, and the end of the DS to the ledger. 5 tubes I think.

I didn't really like it, but it works well. I wish they had a more positive connection seal on the ends. How do you do it Mac?

After everything, I put the trim underneath the ledger and in between the channels (which was a lot of work, but it looks very finished.)

I also took the DS panels and cut them about 16 in. and installed them above the beam (inside the joist bay) and back into the gutter. I did this so that the beam doesn't collect water. I notched my 2- 2by12 beam into my 6 by 6 piers then had to box it out so that the beam appears to be solid, and I didn't want any water sitting in there. On the outside of the cantilever after the beam I simply put 1 by 12 underneath of it, gapping either side about 3-8 inch gap.

The whole deck is spaced 3/8 according to Trex it must be because it is considered a sleeper system. They said they would not have warrantied the deck if I would have done it at a 1/4. Something I never knew before.
 

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I didn't really like it, but it works well. I wish they had a more positive connection seal on the ends. How do you do it Mac?

After everything, I put the trim underneath the ledger and in between the channels (which was a lot of work, but it looks very finished.)

The whole deck is spaced 3/8 according to Trex it must be because it is considered a sleeper system. They said they would not have warrantied the deck if I would have done it at a 1/4. Something I never knew before.
Here's a couple of shots of my current project. Normally, I run 1x3 metal (1" up behind siding, 3" out over joist/ledger connection) but HO wanted to be able to remove the deck board closest to house to sluice out tree debris (HEAVY pine tree canopy surrounding the house) so I used 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" metal.
Alum. tape on the seams for the first 12-18", silicone caulk in the corners, on top edge of DS ledger channel and around the hangers - let it set up for a day. Then came back and wrapped the connection w/ layers of flashing tape (start at the bottom and work up).




Still trying to come up w/ a way to pretty up the bottom of the exposed ledger...I like your idea of ind. pieces fitted between the joist channels. It looks nice and finished.
If I set up a jig on my chop saw, it shouldn't add that much time. Hell, they could prepaint 'em before I install, that'd be m-u-u-c-h easier than after the fact!

Regarding TREX, they've gotten very good at dodging warranty claims. I'm surprised they mentioned anything to you before the install.
Ever see a black hole in action? send an email to [email protected]
you'll never hear or see it again!! worthless company...
[you readin' this TREX lurker? You don't back me, you don't back your product, I told your reps I'd shout it from the freakin' rooftops]


Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Instead of using the DS ledger brackets on the outside joists I just cut the "combo bracket" channel under the F portion of the channel and tuck the other side up under the fascia board.

I usually use 2 by 10 joists with 1 by 12 Fascia so you never really see the channel.

I had to fill the back of the channel against the ledger with OSI quad 4 because the channel stops at the bottom of the hangers and leaves a gap.

I use Trex a lot. I like it. I haven't had any warranty issues, but I know how you feel, about companies who don't back their product failures (GAF-ELK).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The stairs turned out really nice I used a 1by12 to case the stringers then cut an 1 1/2 rip out of a 1 by 12 and used that as a fillet between another 3 and 1/2 inch rip. I saw someone do it for doors with MDF and it looked really good, so I thought I'd give 'er a shot. For the exposed cut end at the bottom I cut a spindle down for a capital.

I have done it with 2by4 in the past to make up the difference.

I used 1 by 12 under the stairs with a gap to case the bottom of the stringers.
 
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