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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have not dry blasted a boat yet, and have one I have to do one this weekend with the dry blaster because my farrow is down for right now due to a broken water pump.

I am planing on using some fine crushed glass any tips?
 

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Trial and Error Opperator
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Make the tent really tight and start with low psi
Like 50 then go up from there
Make sure you have a port for landscaping cloth to let out a little psi in the tent
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what mill plastic is that? how do you see ?
thanks for the quick response this is an important job for me for a big boat builder over here and i would use my farrow but its down
 

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Bob
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Is this a new bare hull that you are profiling for paint or are you removing old paint?

BTW, whats wrong with the Farrow? I've worked through issues with mine over the years, maybe I can help?
 

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kauai88 said:
what mill plastic is that? how do you see ? thanks for the quick response this is an important job for me for a big boat builder over here and i would use my farrow but its down
Kauai, your basically building a tent under the boat and under the stands, bring the sided up and tape to the haul with shrink wrap tape.
Making a bubble around the boat. The triangle in the front or back should have cloth to capture the dust but let some air out.

I use 20'x100' 3mil Start at center of keel, remove one stand at a time and place plastic under it smoothing it out flat,replace and move to next one ( make sure they have more than 4 stand, you'll need 6 +) After both sides are under the stands
Tape it down the middle with the shrink wrap tape to seal the tent.
Move to the sides and start taping from the middle of the boat to the back, go above the water line a 1' or more
thus will give you head room, seal the back and sides together with tape or clips
On the front were the plastic comes together at the bow you have a triangle hole this is you way in and place to put cloth

Ive attached a few photos so you can see the cloth in the front., one is under the boat so you can see how we go under the stands...

Note: the sides on the bottom, you can see we have tried over the years to use 2x4's to keep the tent form puffing out, we have found its better to have one solid piece from the center (under the keel) to the side and let it puff out.
I will post more pictures in a new post of how we let the sides go...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is this a new bare hull that you are profiling for paint or are you removing old paint?

BTW, whats wrong with the Farrow? I've worked through issues with mine over the years, maybe I can help?
It is an older 16 foot mono hull with a cuddy cabin I have been asked to take it down to the fiberglass for them to re apply jell coat or maybe re paint not sure ?

my farrows water pump took a :censored: and I am waiting to go all out and buy the 6:1 wiwa water pump which is $1,800 since I have an older model (2006) it came with the 4:1 wiwa. also when I am replacing that we are going to replace the regulator and plumbing to 1 1/4" to accpept higher cfm/psi so can run it off my 375
and that will cost about $1,000 for the reg & plumbing
I am excited to do this when i get some extra cash flow
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Kauai, your basically building a tent under the boat and under the stands, bring the sided up and tape to the haul with shrink wrap tape.
Making a bubble around the boat. The triangle in the front or back should have cloth to capture the dust but let some air out.

I use 20'x100' 3mil Start at center of keel, remove one stand at a time and place plastic under it smoothing it out flat,replace and move to next one ( make sure they have more than 4 stand, you'll need 6 +) After both sides are under the stands
Tape it down the middle with the shrink wrap tape to seal the tent.
Move to the sides and start taping from the middle of the boat to the back, go above the water line a 1' or more
thus will give you head room, seal the back and sides together with tape or clips
On the front were the plastic comes together at the bow you have a triangle hole this is you way in and place to put cloth

Ive attached a few photos so you can see the cloth in the front., one is under the boat so you can see how we go under the stands...

Note: the sides on the bottom, you can see we have tried over the years to use 2x4's to keep the tent form puffing out, we have found its better to have one solid piece from the center (under the keel) to the side and let it puff out.
I will post more pictures in a new post of how we let the sides go...

much mahalos kind sir this is an awesome setup ! will have to try I am sure it takes some practice to get right haha but well worth it the clean up must be a breeze!

what size nozzle do you usually use for boats ?
 

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Bob
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It is an older 16 foot mono hull with a cuddy cabin I have been asked to take it down to the fiberglass for them to re apply jell coat or maybe re paint not sure ?

my farrows water pump took a :censored: and I am waiting to go all out and buy the 6:1 wiwa water pump which is $1,800 since I have an older model (2006) it came with the 4:1 wiwa. also when I am replacing that we are going to replace the regulator and plumbing to 1 1/4" to accpept higher cfm/psi so can run it off my 375
and that will cost about $1,000 for the reg & plumbing
I am excited to do this when i get some extra cash flow
Reason I asked, dry blast in a tent, its tough to see what is going on, particularly if you are profiling unpainted gel-coat, easy to miss spots or overdo areas, be careful. With paint already on the boat its far easier to hit everything without overshooting areas. Expect very poor visibility either way, however.

On your pump, they are easy and cheap to rebuild with a wiwa kit, didn't know they used two different pumps though . . .
 

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Sand Pot said:
Reason I asked, dry blast in a tent, its tough to see what is going on, particularly if you are profiling unpainted gel-coat, easy to miss spots or overdo areas, be careful. With paint already on the boat its far easier to hit everything without overshooting areas. Expect very poor visibility either way, however. On your pump, they are easy and cheap to rebuild with a wiwa kit, didn't know they used two different pumps though . . .
Kauai, didn't realize your taking it down to glass Thought you was just taking off bottom paint Like sandpot says be careful, very limited vision in a tent because of the dust, go slow at low psi to see better, take a few breaks In between Tent blasting takes a little time to get used to The only area you can see is right in front because of the air bubble the hose makes. Just a note, everything that is dust will stick to your lens. Wiping it with your glove will create static cling and will make it worse lol
Extra rag in pocket works good
 

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Kauai, didn't realize your taking it down to glass Thought you was just taking off bottom paint Like sandpot says be careful, very limited vision in a tent because of the dust, go slow at low psi to see better, take a few breaks In between Tent blasting takes a little time to get used to The only area you can see is right in front because of the air bubble the hose makes. Just a note, everything that is dust will stick to your lens. Wiping it with your glove will create static cling and will make it worse lol
Extra rag in pocket works good
If he's taking it down to glass... wouldn't shaving the gel-coat be easier?
 

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Bob
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I got WIWA parts from West Coast Coatings & Equip, Tacoma, WA. There's 2 kits avail,

#0641231 Seal Kit for 70/75 $23.00
#0622958 Repair Kit MP 70/42D $92.00

btw, most WIWA pumps are used for high production airless paint systems
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got WIWA parts from West Coast Coatings & Equip, Tacoma, WA. There's 2 kits avail,

#0641231 Seal Kit for 70/75 $23.00
#0622958 Repair Kit MP 70/42D $92.00

btw, most WIWA pumps are used for high production airless paint systems
mahalo
 
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