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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working in Texas... Replacing Roofs damaged in Hail storms...
Some of our subcontractors are having difficulty cutting drip edges with no gaps at top around exterior corners. Should this be a cause of concern.
I have been told the way to avoid this is to use two pieces.
Id like to develop a visual of this process; to make these homes roofs better.
A. We are using metal drip edge from lowes. Its not a 90, its the more expensive stuff which bends 3 times; not an L more of a T...
B. It seems logical to me to cut pieces symetrically centered at gables first and work down lapping 6 inches under from top.
c. Another thing I am finding is a tendency to install all drip edges over felt.
I am printing manufacturer spec with pics in spanish in an attempt to solve this. I was wondering if this is maybe drip edge spec; or metal???
Anyone know what I mean?
Anyone care to share methods of explanation; for the subs?
My goal is to ensure warranty and help make buildings better.
Yes, I am learning spanish.
 

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Al Smith
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Not sure what you mean by gaps at top. A picture would help. You mean at the ridge? or at the rake end at the eave? Home centers don't carry much of the correct drip edge. I can use off the shelf stuff for rakes but I usually bend up my own at the gutter as the profile I need varies with different pitches. as far as felt I have read that some roofing codes in storm effected regions of the US are contradictory. Requiring felt both over and under the drip in some interpretations. Here in NJ not so much. At the rakes I put drip edge over felt but at eaves i put I&W over drip edge. I use shingle starter at rakes.
 

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At hip corners I will cut the roof 'leg' and the kickout 'leg', but not the vertical 'leg', and bend the metal around the corner. The trick is to make your cut's at the right spot so the drip isn't too tight to the fascia.

Preferred sequential method of installation otherwise is; Drip, I&W eavs valleys, Felt paper rest of the roof, Rake edge. Usually laps on drip and rake edges are minimal, about an inch. Otherwise those two layers of metal get noticable beyond appreciation :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Clarify

Hips? now I'm lost. Why would you put "drip edge" on top of a hip? Or do you mean around the corner at the gutter? You cant just cut the drip edge at an angle of the hip and intersect them?
The roof corner at the bottom of the hip... the top of the drip edge metal.
You can cut and bend the drip edge or you can cut one piece to length, stopping at end of facia trim, 1x2, then place next piece; question is how to bend this condition. And how to tell people who are speaking a different language what you want.

also does it matter? Second method looks better, but is it? There is shingle over corner and a hole seems to defeat the purpose...
 

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Al Smith
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The roof corner at the bottom of the hip... the top of the drip edge metal.
You can cut and bend the drip edge or you can cut one piece to length, stopping at end of facia trim, 1x2, then place next piece; question is how to bend this condition. And how to tell people who are speaking a different language what you want.

also does it matter? Second method looks better, but is it? There is shingle over corner and a hole seems to defeat the purpose...

Because its a slope in two different roof planes intersecting. There's no way to relief cut the top and bend it around the corner accurately. the metal wants to climb out and away from the facia at the same slope as the preceding roof plane. For a hip cut it slightly longer and cut and bend ears over the drip edge of the other roof plane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Amerimax F 4.5" modified...
I cant post links yet.

Manufacturer uses gable examples; not hip/roof corner conditions...

I will post pics of two results soon..
 

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Get better crews and don't nitpick. I'm pretty sure I know what you are talking about, but I'll wait for the pics.
 

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we refer to this as style D roof edge and just cut two ends at a 45 and join them at the corner---or you could relief cut and bend it around and slip a flat piece in from the back side to fill in the missing corner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everyone!

I really appreciate all the help you have provided.
Several ideas to solve this problem have been uncovered here.
Seems like there is not an industry standard.
I am asking Amerimax too.

Thanks,
jcs0009
 

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At the corner you need to miter cut the drip or it will look like hell.


To start cut the first pc from the long point at a 45* angle on the overhang part of the drip.

Follow the 45* cut on the top of the drip and snip it off (the part that sits on the roof).

From the inside of the first cut move back .5" and snip the kick on the bottom.

Trim the face so you have an ear to fold at a 90* bend and install so the bottom is bit past the corner (just a hair) and nail in place.

The second pc. gets another 45* cut for the long point on the top overhang. Trim the top off.

Hold the drip in place so the long points match and mark the under/back side with a pencil.

Cut the pencil line and install.....

Hard to explain but I hope this helps....
 

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At the corner you need to miter cut the drip or it will look like hell.


To start cut the first pc from the long point at a 45* angle on the overhang part of the drip.

Follow the 45* cut on the top of the drip and snip it off (the part that sits on the roof).

From the inside of the first cut move back .5" and snip the kick on the bottom.

Trim the face so you have an ear to fold at a 90* bend and install so the bottom is bit past the corner (just a hair) and nail in place.

The second pc. gets another 45* cut for the long point on the top overhang. Trim the top off.

Hold the drip in place so the long points match and mark the under/back side with a pencil.

Cut the pencil line and install.....

Hard to explain but I hope this helps....
Exactly how I do it.

I hate when people "FOLD" them around the corners, you can see from the bottom a nice chunk where there is no drip edge.
 

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Drip edge profiles when where and why

Thank you for the discussion about lapping and finishing the drip edge profiles at the corner intersections. I would also like to talk about where to use each type of profile and how to transition between them.

There seems to be a lot of debate about where to use gutter apron, t or "D" style drip edge, undersill trim, and shingle mold.

I have spoken to a gutter contractor who drew me a picture of the trim they use gable ends and the profile most closely resembled the C channel from the rollex catalog. http://rollex.com/products/roofing-accessories

I am an electrical contractor but often end up the site forman for the GC and am trying to settle on a best practice plan for areas that will receive gutters, enclosed gutters like k-guard or leafguard, and areas with no gutters like gable rakes.

There is not a lot of information on lap detail when transitioning between different styles of edge on corners. The discussion on this page has been some of the best advice I have seen out there. Thanks very much everyone who has contributed.
 

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I like to make the rake trim cover the end of the gutter. In respect to drip edge this makes the rake drip a plumb cut on the bottom. Thus making the fascia/shadow drip a square cut. Inside corners will get a cope.
 
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