Pretty sure my plumber just uses a hole saw bit.
Like a Lenox from depot.
Goes slow and keeps putting water on it.
And the bit doesn't last too long.
I know for a fact he drilled a 4" hole in a 3/16" steel grease trap, cause I watched him. Pretty sure he did the same on the SS countertops, but I didn't actually see him.
Thanks.... Kinda want to be sure.... so I don't tear it up... only have one shot at it....I don't have any SS to experiment on.
I've used the Greenlee carbide hole saws on stainless sinks. Tape the top, commit to it, and it will punch through in no time, like POW! you're done. Tape the top.
The bimetal are risky - they can just spin and heat up and discolor the stainless. I've done that.
And on the larger greenlees (bigger than 3/4") you can and should use an arbor with a pilot drill.
Seems like a knockout punch would work. Maybe your sparky has a hydraulic one. Drill a small hole with a regular bit...put the cutter/puller through...pop.
But maybe that's a terrible idea too...just thinking 'outloud' :thumbsup:
Bob... Thank Ya... Gotta go find greenlee bit now.... wish I could afford the whole "hole" set....:whistling
Sure would use a pilot.......What did you mean tape it...?...
I assume you just meant some tape to prevent "splintering"... makeing a cleaner start....just checking, although in my case.... it'll be covered.
TIA
Peter
Seems like a knockout punch would work. Maybe your sparky has a hydraulic one. Drill a small hole with a regular bit...put the cutter/puller through...pop.
But maybe that's a terrible idea too...just thinking 'outloud' :thumbsup:
That was my first suggestion and it's the best way to do it. I used one for a hot water dispenser, worked awesome.
If you do not have access to a knock out punch, use the 1-3/8" hole saw to bore a hole in a 1-by or 2-by. Use 3M mounting tape to secure the template to the sink in the proper location. Pack the hole saw with ice or a wet sponge. Low speed, with the quality of stainless and gauge you'll be done in no time. Use the finest tooth hole saw you can find, do not use a lot of downward pressure, just enough for the teeth to do their work, you don't want it to grab and twist the metal.
Tom
Tom.... Thanks... That's what I'm thinking of doing.....
I could not find Bob's idea of a Greenlee carbide......
(the finest tooth I could find today was a Lenox bimetal....which I have plenty of, but at least the new one is sharp)
(I had allready explained in previous posts that I don't have reasonable access to a punch/slug-buster.)
My only other idea was to try using a 1 -3/8 step bit...., but I could only find it today in high speed steal/titanioum..... not cobalt....
Thought I would try your idea first,,,, see how it is cutting.... if not then flip to the step bit while I still have the pilot hole.
Best