Yes but that seems really small for bollards.

 

It drills super easy.

 

What size bollards?

We usually cut a square hole in the asphalt, big enough to clear the auger, and finish with concrete.

 

He needs to drill 8x3/4" holes total.

He needs two bollards.

I'm guessing they are surface mount and use 4x3/4" fasteners of some type.

Just a guess.

 

3/4" ain't a bollard....

I read it as 8 3/4" holes....or whatever....

Why bother drilling those, just drive them...

 

I have re-read the post several times and I thought the samething, 8 3/4" holes. But then confused because how would you hammer drill that big of a bit?

If it is to protect the tank, I would think just as tgeb said, they should be buried to give them structure. No way would a mounting plate work on asphalt, IMO.

I have cut asphalt with my quickie saw, that was a mess, plugged up the blade a bit but did ok.

 

Pound them with a big hammer.

 

Every bollard I've ever installed was at least 5' long and 2' or more buried in concrete.

There is no way attaching a plate with a post, (in asphalt), is going to meet fire code.

 

As said above, bollards need to be sunk into the ground, not surface mounted on asphalt.

If you don't have a saw, it's easy to drill a few holes as aids for chiseling away the asphalt so you can auger or hand-dig to the appropriate depth. :thumbsup:

 

I would think you could core drill what ever diameter hole you need. Seat bollards down through asphalt drive them down. Then drive a #6 or 2 #6 rebars as deep as you can fill with concrete and finish the tops round. Not sure if I missed something. But seems like if their 8 3/4" diameter like most I've seen and filled with concrete they'd be pretty stable ?

 

I have two bollards to install. They are 4 1/2" diameter and 36" tall steel post with a 10"x10" mounting base with 4 3/4" holes in each base. I know that a surface mounted option into asphalt is not nearly as strong as a surface mounted post into concrete. Obviously setting a post 24" into the asphalt is a much stronger and better situation. However the customer is nearing the end of her cash budget and is looking to do thing for as little as possible. I told her the surface mounting option isn't as strong and would need to be cleared first. The propane company approved the surface mounted bollards. Drilling 8 holes should be faster then cutting and busting through the asphalt and then digging out so that is the option she went with.

Thanks for all the input

 

So you are going to depend on some sort of anchor to hold in approx. two & a half inches of asphalt?

How long will you have to warranty the installation for?

What is your plan to repair if you have to make good on warranty?

 

I'd still cut the blacktop and pour a pad so they could be mounted to concrete.

 

On a hot day, I bet you could push those bollards over with your bare hands.

 

My motorcycle used to fall over from its own wieght when the kick stand sunk into the asphalt when it was real hot. That asphalt won't hold chit.

 

The customer is right after you do your job and educate them into making the correct decision

 

Sorry, but this is one of those cases where you need to protect the customer from him[her]self. I'm still goggling over the idea that the propane company gives that approach a thumbsup.

 

All in all the majority vote wins. I will be letting the customer know change of plans. Bollards will be set in concrete. If that's not the route they want to take then someone else can have it. Thanks for turning my head around with the advice.

 

Can't imagine putting in surface mount in concrete for a propane tank let alone asphalt.

 

These would work better than anything suface mounted. Even surface mounted to concrete isn't even going to slow down some old lady backing into a propane tank.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Adjustable-Sawhorse-2-Pack-STST60626/203799620

 

I'll correct myself. Surface mounted to concrete could work if done correctly to DOT specs., but by then you would be 10X over the budget of sawing out a square, digging down 2' , sliding in a bollard and pouring in a bag of Kwickrete.

 

I leave the crete down a couple inches and finish with cold patch for appearance.

 

There are asphalt specific anchors that go deep into the ground that you set in grout.

Still probably not that strong...

 

And most likely more expensive (all around) than just digging a friggin' hole and burying the thing 2' down.

 

Yea,, going about it all wrong, if u have 3 ' above ground u need 2 minimum under ground with at least 2 foot square concrete footer poured around, fill ductile iron (preferably) pipe with concrete as well cap the top with domed concrete paint yellow walla, they have new technology now a days whare u can pour a foundation, base with a locking unlocking Ballard for easy removal reinstall for blocking entrance ways and such their nice but expensive, only really good when necessary

 

Hey that was just for the original question, everything everyone else said here was right on point and correct, it's really cool for a change to converse and listen to people who do the same thing I do every day thanks everyone, have a good one