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Radical Basement Dweller
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Would Quad have been a better choice for that reason? I have both, silicone is just easier to work with in my experience.
Dunno. Have only used Quad once and I didn't care for it.
I use Big Stretch pretty exclusively inside and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Dunno. Have only used Quad once and I didn't care for it.
I use Big Stretch pretty exclusively inside and out.
Yeah, I've seen the threads on "Best caulking". No straight answers there. But Quad is what I have and I'm happy with it so far. If neither of those are good options I can find something else, but I don't have Big Stretch locally. My lumberyard has Quad and Solar Seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Okay sorry for spamming posts, another update: I blew the next set of doors down with a leaf blower and tack clothed it off. I primed them and again developed fish eyes. Again it was only on the plywood. I am now trying experiments with plywood cutoffs to see what works best. So far strictly sanding and blowing the wood has worked better than tack cloths, acetone, mineral spirits, and formula 409. I'm going to see if I can pick up some Krud Kutter and microfiber cloths, maybe even some TSP. I'm kind of grasping at straws at this point, tomorrow is my best chance to hang the doors for a couple of weeks. I need to figure this out but I don't really know what to do at this point. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Radical Basement Dweller
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I probably would spray with a coat or two of dewaxed shellac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
So I tried Krud Kutter and it worked pretty well at eliminating the fish eye. I had some of the paint crawling on one door so I think I have to just let it dry enough before I paint it. Hopefully that issue is in the past. Next question: Here are the hinges I'm using for the doors.
Rectangle Font Bicycle part Auto part Automotive exterior


What do you think is the best way to hang the doors with this type of hinge? The door jamb is already set of course, and the doors weigh about 200-250 lbs or so a piece. I was thinking about trying to set the top and bottom pintles and hanging the door on that, and setting the third hinge afterwards but I feel like I won't be able to get it exact enough to where the hinges are resting on both perfectly. My other thought was to use shims and an air wedge to shove the door up into and against the jamb so that I can attach the hinges with the door in place. That would give me some wiggle room to adjust for plumb in both directions. Also the hinges have some play in them, so I'm going to try and make sure they are down as much as they will go before I set the screws. Do any of you set heavy doors like this slightly higher than plumb to account for sag? Please advise
 

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Yea, some weight there. I’d block them up, a pry bar placed just right helps as well w/a small block under that for leverage. Tricky solo, but you can handle it. I’d strap the top & midrail a bit high, leaving bottom rail for last. Maybe block inside of jamb as a stop. I’ve hung 10’ solid church doors solo & thousands of 8’ers. You got it. Have plenty of blocks, short & long handy. Make sure you’ve got plenty of meat inside jamb to cripple. Maybe cross block @ king studs where hinges will go if accessible. Some of the screws that come w/ those are cheesy & strip east. Predrill & angle to outside a bit. Good luck keep us posted


Mike
 

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Yea, some weight there. I’d block them up, a pry bar placed just right helps as well w/a small block under that for leverage. Tricky solo, but you can handle it. I’d strap the top & midrail a bit high, leaving bottom rail for last. Maybe block inside of jamb as a stop. I’ve hung 10’ solid church doors solo & thousands of 8’ers. You got it. Have plenty of blocks, short & long handy. Make sure you’ve got plenty of meat inside jamb to cripple. Maybe cross block @ king studs where hinges will go if accessible. Some of the screws that come w/ those are cheesy & strip east. Predrill & angle to outside a bit. Good luck keep us posted


Mike
Good advice across the board, there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Yea, some weight there. I’d block them up, a pry bar placed just right helps as well w/a small block under that for leverage. Tricky solo, but you can handle it. I’d strap the top & midrail a bit high, leaving bottom rail for last. Maybe block inside of jamb as a stop. I’ve hung 10’ solid church doors solo & thousands of 8’ers. You got it. Have plenty of blocks, short & long handy. Make sure you’ve got plenty of meat inside jamb to cripple. Maybe cross block @ king studs where hinges will go if accessible. Some of the screws that come w/ those are cheesy & strip east. Predrill & angle to outside a bit. Good luck keep us posted


Mike

Okay so I got one set up. I set them in place, set some stop blocks against the jamb and used the air shim to get them into place. I originally tried to account for some sag, but since I'm using a standard door latch with a 1/2" throw, and the doors are 4" thick, the gap between them is so small they have to be parallel in order to open. I'm confident the doors themselves won't sag, so as long as the hinges and the jamb don't sag I should be fine.

Speaking of the jamb, I have two different openings. One is a 16' garage door that I split into two openings and one is a 9' opening. I previously padded the walls out to approx 11" from the exterior wall so that the post that splits the larger opening could be anchored on concrete, not blacktop. I then connected the two walls with 2x12s which the PVC fnish jamb is connected to. And I did put blocking between the studs and attached to the walls on either end. That's what I'm anchoring the doors into. But the post versus the walls introduces an interesting dynamic.

The hinges have to be face mounted on the post splitting the large opening. Said post is also slightly out of plumb. (Curse those cheap Empire levels, I'm going to have to drop the dough on some Stabilas.) But the hinges on either side of the opening are mounted 90 degrees to the door. That's giving me a little trouble getting the hinges lined up. On the set I have hung I'm having issues with them being out of coplanar, about 1/2". I'm just going to bring in the corner of the door that's not mounted to the post, since I can adjust that one. Hopefully that will bring it to a bearable amount. They won't be terribly plumb, but they're heavy enough that they won't self open. If you have any suggestions for how to line up the hinges on the wall with the hinges on the post before I hang the doors and find out it's crosslegged, that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Here's a picture of the (mostly) final product. I still need to put in windows and some weatherstripping, and the door handles... so maybe not so final. They're not perfect, but my boss is happy. Definitely a good learning experience, as most of my projects are at this stage of my career.

Property Window Road surface Wood Building
 

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Looks like you did a good job. Trial & error has taught me some great tricks, even when I was ready to burn the job down. Well done


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Looks like you did a good job. Trial & error has taught me some great tricks, even when I was ready to burn the job down. Well done


Mike
Thanks for the kind words and the advice Mike.

On to the next problem. I got the extended spindles back from the machine shop this week, and they work fine. Only problem is, the throw on the door latch is only 5/16". The gap on my doors is about 1/4" - 5/16". On one set it just barely latches, on the other set it doesn't latch at all. I already talked to Build.com and Schlage about it, neither one of them have any solutions for me. I need a latch with a longer throw that's compatible with my Schlage F60 handlesets. Any ideas? I'm thinking Ace might have some options, but online I can't seem to find the throw length of the listed latches.
 

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A quarter turn only moves the throw 3/8" at the most, dead bolts go an inch. You could either weld more on the dip of the throw or move the latch out. Or use a 2 3/4 throw in a 2 3/8" backset and pad out the edge and cover it with an astragal

Why would Ace know more than Schlage?
My guess security is not an issue with a gap that big
 
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