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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

Hopefully this thread is in the right place, I'm brand new to the site. Feel free to let me know if its not.

I'm currently building 3 sets of carriage doors for a garage for my boss's farm. He wanted crossbucks on both sides of the doors which dictated how I built the doors. I don't currently have a jointer or a planer, so I built the frame out of LSL studs for their straightness. I then sandwiched that with 1/2" baltic birch plywood on both sides (with some polyiso in the middle) and applied the 3/4" crossbucks over that. That leaves me with a door thats approx. 4 inches thick. I purchased Schlage F60 handlesets because I was told over the phone that it would work for a 4 inch door with a thick door kit. It does not. The kit is meant for a 2 1/2 inch door. The owners really like the handles, but I'm not sure how to work that out. Worst case scenario I simply return those handles and get something different, but I can't even find anything that would work for a door that thick. My best thought currently is to somehow weld extensions onto the spindles and get longer mounting screws, but I'm not sure how to match those screws to the finish (antique pewter). And if that didn't work we'd be out the cost of those handles and still be stuck. Please let me know what you guys think is the best way to handle this.

(I'd post some pictures but my cell phone just died. I'll try to find a way to get some up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know that Schlage makes an extension kit. We have used them before


Mike
I've been looking around, I can only find the 4 inch extension for the deadbolt. I have the thick door kit for the handles, the spindle and the mounting screws are still pretty far away from being operational. If you know of something that extends the handle itself for a four inch door let me know.
 

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It’s been a few years but I used to use emtek hardware for things like this. They use a square steel bar for the handle, i think 3/8x3/8. For the lock it’s a flat small piece that they sold extra long and you could cut to fit. Contact them to see if what they have can work for you. Last time I tried the schlege the extension wasn’t long enough for what I needed.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update: I dropped off the extension kits at a local machine shop. He said he would try to machine a new extension for the spindle and let me know if that doesn't work out, in which case he would end up having to weld on a new piece. He ballparked $50 which seems fine to me. Now I just have to get longer screws (8-32,easy enough) and color match them to the handle. So assuming the machining goes fine then I'm in the clear. I'll keep you guys posted and try to post some pictures tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If it is a square spindle, some Ace Hardware stores have those.
It's not a square spindle, it's split because of the thumb latch on the exterior.


Call Schlage directly, they do have extensions and will give you the part number and you can order though any Schlage dealer
I tried to call them, didn't get through this time but I'm already pretty certain they don't have any options for this thickness. I have discussed it with them previously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I posted some pictures of the doors. While y'all are here maybe you can fix me of my painting worries. This paint is giving me fits, especially on the door on the right in the picture. I am spraying Behr Premium Plus Exterior Semi Gloss Enamel through a Graco Magnum X5. I'm learning not to put too much on at a time to avoid runs, but I'm having horribly ugly issues with fish eyes popping up. I have a few close ups showing that. I don't know whats causing it, I've tried blowing it off with a compressor, tack clothing it, wiping it down with a wet cloth and wiping it down with mineral spirits. It happens when I spray the paint (not the primer) and it happens when I try to touch up with a roller. I can post this question somewhere else if I need to.
 

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I think the problem is most likely caused by blowing off the doors with the compressed air. Especially if it’s a older oil type. Next time use wax and grease remover from automotive paint store after prime. Use a electric leaf blower if you need to after sanding. Can be lots of contaminants in compressed air if you don’t have a dryer and filters.
 

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Not that it’s your main problem, but Behr paint is trash. Try to go to local suppliers, Ben Moore, SW etc. Unless of course your boss or whoever is supplying materials. Sounds like an issue w/prep. & contaminants as mentioned. Some top painters on here, Ohio & others will be along. Nice job on the doors


Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not that it’s your main problem, but Behr paint is trash. Try to go to local suppliers, Ben Moore, SW etc. Unless of course your boss or whoever is supplying materials. Sounds like an issue w/prep. & contaminants as mentioned. Some top painters on here, Ohio & others will be along. Nice job on the doors


Mike
Yeah I figured I was going to hear that. I used it on the walls in the shop and that turned out pretty nice but I'm not impressed with the paint for the door, it mars too easily. He uses Behr and so that's what he had my buy, I think I'll talk to him about trying out SW. The impression I've been getting from my research is that if I get a contractor account, a nice midgrade like Cashmere or Super Paint or maybe even Duration wouldn't be too much more expensive than the Behr Stuff.

I think the problem is most likely caused by blowing off the doors with the compressed air. Especially if it’s a older oil type. Next time use wax and grease remover from automotive paint store after prime. Use a electric leaf blower if you need to after sanding. Can be lots of contaminants in compressed air if you don’t have a dryer and filters.
Does Formula 409 count? I'm trying to think if I have anything on hand. I have the parts washer solvent too but I'm not sure that's what you're talking about.
 

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SW duration is great & long lasting w/a good primer. Don’t want to steer you wrong on your next move. Ohio, Leo, Tom or 1 of our great finishers will be along shortly . Yea, set you up an account & get familiar with SW products


Mike
 

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Yeah I figured I was going to hear that. I used it on the walls in the shop and that turned out pretty nice but I'm not impressed with the paint for the door, it mars too easily. He uses Behr and so that's what he had my buy, I think I'll talk to him about trying out SW. The impression I've been getting from my research is that if I get a contractor account, a nice midgrade like Cashmere or Super Paint or maybe even Duration wouldn't be too much more expensive than the Behr Stuff.



Does Formula 409 count? I'm trying to think if I have anything on hand. I have the parts washer solvent too but I'm not sure that's what you're talking about.
Krud cutter actually works pretty well
Is there any chance silicone got on the doors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Krud cutter actually works pretty well
Is there any chance silicone got on the doors?
I used paintable silicone to seal the seams, but those aren't the problem areas. My problem areas are on the plywood skins between the crossbucks (only on one so far) and on one area that I tried to touch up with a roller.
 
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