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What's your take on aligning a dishwasher during install, relative to cabinet doors, space under countertop, etc.? Let's say for stainless "look" front, top buttons on door. Should it be flush with closed doors, mostly, or "it depends.."? How about the gap above?

(I hate some of these da*ned units. Should probably stick this in that thread.)

The side gaskets on the one I installed yesterday (low end GE) seem to indicate that it go in further than maybe it should be....I'm considering to bring various thicknesses of blocking for these, and glue it behind the cab sides, and screw into that.
 

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What's your take on aligning a dishwasher during install, relative to cabinet doors, space under countertop, etc.? Let's say for stainless "look" front, top buttons on door. Should it be flush with closed doors, mostly, or "it depends.."? How about the gap above?

(I hate some of these da*ned units. Should probably stick this in that thread.)

The side gaskets on the one I installed yesterday (low end GE) seem to indicate that it go in further than maybe it should be....I'm considering to bring various thicknesses of blocking for these, and glue it behind the cab sides, and screw into that.
Most dishwashers have side mounting holes so you align the face of the dishwasher with the face frame of the cabinet (not the doors). Some come with top mounting brackets that you screw to the countertop or a dishwasher mounting bar if that is what is used, so alignment would be the same.
Check the installation guide in case the specs call for something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most dishwashers have side mounting holes so you align the face of the dishwasher with the face frame of the cabinet (not the doors). Some come with top mounting brackets that you screw to the countertop or a dishwasher mounting bar if that is what is used, so alignment would be the same.
Check the installation guide in case the specs call for something else.
Yup, but those side holes seemed to push this one too far out. I'll take another look, though, since I have to go back for other stuff.
 

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Yup, but those side holes seemed to push this one too far out. I'll take another look, though, since I have to go back for other stuff.
some if you use the mounting holes matched up with the faceframe the gasket is infront of the faceframe. usually on the lower end units

There is a really good mounting bracket to use with granite tops and eliminates use of side clips, I have used it a few times with dishwashers and wine fridges

http://www.granitegrabbers.com/how_it_works.html
 

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some if you use the mounting holes matched up with the faceframe the gasket is infront of the faceframe. usually on the lower end units

There is a really good mounting bracket to use with granite tops and eliminates use of side clips, I have used it a few times with dishwashers and wine fridges

http://www.granitegrabbers.com/how_it_works.html
Someone was telling me about them, but they never used it. Have you tried them yet? If yes what you think...will it hold up?
 

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Yes several times
Adhesive is very sticky similar to auto body side molding adhesive, very secure, much easier than the side clips
 

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I normally only do paneled DW and they need to align with the other doors. I think a normally faced DW should align also, it the hardware allows it.

I hate that they only give you two alignment points, and they're up closer to the top. After using the unit normally for a time the bottom usually kicks in or out because they always let the door slam. The manufacturers need to have a 4 point system to keep the alignment for the life of the kitchen.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I stopped by a new appliance show room today and asked, and also looked at their mock-ups (pretty sweet, since the units were all $1000 and up, and with nice cabinetry). Flush with cab doors was the way to go.

It seemed that side mounting placed the screws behind the face frame (further in), like 3/4" +/-, so prepping with a cleat or filler would be one option. They had a set-up like that. Also, the screw distance from the face frame varied a bit, depending on brand.

As for vertical height above door with top buttons, they all appeared to be about 5/8" to 3/4", or enough to get a finger on the buttons (even if you aren't supposed to...)
 

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Front face flush with edge of countertop. Looks good, screw holes line up with stiles and you can still read the timer
 

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But if you want to continue the toe kick across the front of the dw to give it a more built in look it will need to be set farther in.
 

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I've used the Granite Grabbers, they are very nice to use.

Flush with faceframes on inset cabinets, flush with door faces on an overlay cabinet, be it a panel ready or factory door.

Elevation, I like to align the top with the tops of the doors/drawers on overlays if the dw door will open without hitting the countertop. On insets, I like to see 1/4-3/8" space between the door and bottom of the top.

Side gap, if were doing a panel we make it to match the door/drawer gap.

Tom
 

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The manufacturers need to have a 4 point system to keep the alignment for the life of the kitchen.
Life of the kitchen?

I did a reboot of our kitchen 20+ years ago, custom cabinets installed, still looks great.

I am on my 4th dishwasher,(at least, I have lost count), and just replaced the pump system in this one. I've had GE Profile, Bosch top of the line and this last one is a mid/hi end KitchenAid. None of the washers last....

I have repaired every single washer until I got so pissed putting parts in that I just buy a new one, then repeat the process. :censored::laughing:
 

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Life of the kitchen?

I did a reboot of our kitchen 20+ years ago, custom cabinets installed, still looks great.

I am on my 4th dishwasher,(at least, I have lost count), and just replaced the pump system in this one. I've had GE Profile, Bosch top of the line and this last one is a mid/hi end KitchenAid. None of the washers last....

I have repaired every single washer until I got so pissed putting parts in that I just buy a new one, then repeat the process. :censored::laughing:
I just buy the cheaper one I can find and they last 5-7 years, the more expensive kitchenaid lasted 3 and needed $400 repair
 

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Ive always done em on a case by case basis. Ussually the rubber gasket is my guide and i try to level that straight just inside the face frame. If the base coverplate doesnt line up well with the toe kick i may set it deeper if needed.If they are predrilled to attach to face frame i think that's better and more secure in the long run.

I will say ive never liked the designs where the buttons were all on the top of the door. Sure, it keeps the kids from messing with it and all but it just always feels wrong to me to have all the controls covered up including the cancel button when the door is closed.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
 
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