When my old man needs the jobsite table saw, he uses a ramp.I pay others to run wires...just like I'd pay too see your sorry butt try and pull a 90# hammer with an asphalt chisel back up after sinking it into the dirt.
A post driver sits nicely on top, sure it's a wrestling match to get it there.Better than a 110 pipe driver. Or the 2 7/8 steel drill stems it drives for boat docks
Negative, Hoss. I would know.Even on flat concrete a 90# will turn your arms to jelly in no time flat,
You must be a bigger man then me, it was the lifting and re-positioning the bit that is murder. Hell even a 60 pound is a bastard to work with.Negative, Hoss. I would know.
I've used the smaller one's sideways, in a trench, cramped by the shield, 8' below grade, hotter than chit and not much air. Yeah, it's not as easy as scratching your ass, but if it was easy work, we'd have women and children doing it.
The lower back gives out pretty quick when working in a hole.Legs and body - arms don't do much, but my hands went tingley after doing it all day for a few days.
You pussy.Anti-vibe gloves help alot.
I've done quite a few holes in clayey soil and shale that way. Beats the daylights out of a digging iron. But I agree, I'd much rather use one on concrete. :laughing:I don't know if any of you guys have dug a hole with a hammer, but every 2 seconds of hammering is followed by wrestling that bastard back out and re-positioning the tip. Even on flat concrete a 90# will turn your arms to jelly in no time flat, leaning over in a hole trying to lift it from the dirt would be impossible.
Flat ground or a hole, lift and twist at the same time gets mine, but that's from an injury maybe 10 years ago. Now I alternate forward and reverse grip on a shovel, and left and right handed, so it's 4 different motions instead of the same one all day. Rotator cuffs like the reverse grip.The lower back gives out pretty quick when working in a hole.
Don't try and run with the big dogs if you pee like a pup..:laughing::thumbsup:You must be a bigger man then me, it was the lifting and re-positioning the bit that is murder. Hell even a 60 pound is a bastard to work with.
The lower back gives out pretty quick when working in a hole.
I have a kobalt 40 Volt battery operated pole saw I use for this kind of thing. Buy several extra chains at about $15 @. Whole kit with battery is about $160. Re-sharpen chains at about $8. Extra battery is nice too for longer jobs. Just the tool is $90. So even if you ruined it. Not super expensive. You could also look for 2nd hand. Pole keeps it at arms length so if you get a kickback. But my kobalt takes a lot of abuse and keeps going. Hope it helps.I have to set some 6 x 6 deck posts and footings close to a large maple tree. The tree is coming down so damage to it's health is not a concern. The problem is the huge roots I know I'm going to encounter. Has anyone discovered a good way of dealing with this? I'm going to go about 14" wide and 24" deep. I would rent an auger but I know hitting a root will just send me sailing off somewhere. And I don't think the tractor attached type will do anything with roots either. I thought about just going with dekbloks on top of the ground since it's going to be freestanding but I don't think I could get by with that on a 40 foot deck.