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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building a commercial laundromat in NYC and next to the washer platforms we have knee walls going in to close of the sides. On the backside we decided to use a Densshield as a tilebacker being that they get some moisture we thought it would be a good idea to ensure that it is waterproof. This is my first time using the product and I see many of you are familiar with it, so I had a few questions.

1. What product should I be using to seal all the joints between sheets? I believe silicone is correct but is there a specific brand or type?

2. How should I seal up and penetrations made if they are an inch of so larger in diameter than the conduit passing through?

3. Lastly, I noticed a few sheets had some of the gray waterproof layer is peeled along some of the edges. I am trying to avoid using those sections as much as possible but is there a way to seal it off or should I just grab another sheet from my supplier? Realistically I should just have them replace it but I can't wait on them to deliver new sheets.

Thanks
 

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DS001 Walls or Ceilings
DensShield® Tile Backer can be used as a tile substrate in residential and commercial wall applications. Attach DensShield
Tile Backer with grey side facing the interior. Tiles should always be applied to grey side. Cut panel to required size and make
cutouts. Fit ends and edges closely. Do not leave gaps between panels.
DensShield Tile Backer may be cut by using a utility knife to score, then snap, working from the grey face side.
For walls, when used as a tile substrate a minimum 20-gauge* (33 mils) steel or wood framing should be spaced no greater than
16” (406 mm) o.c. or 24” (610 mm) with blocking at all joints for 1/2” (12.7 mm) DensShield Tile Backer and 24” (610 mm) o.c. for
5/8” (15.9 mm) DensShield Tile Backer. Board can be applied horizontally or vertically.
For ceilings, framing should be spaced no greater than 12” (305 mm) o.c. for 1/2” (12.7 mm) or 16” (406 mm) o.c. for
5/8” (15.9 mm) thickness. Board should be applied perpendicular to framing.
Fasteners shall be spaced 6” (152 mm) o.c. for walls and ceilings for wood and steel framing. Do not countersink. Drive fasteners
flush with grey coated surface. See Fastener Guide for proper selection.
Do not use DensShield panels as a base for nailing and mechanical fastening.
In all corners, imbed with a bead of flexible sealant when installing panels into corner. Apply self-adhesive 2” (51 mm) wide
fiberglass mesh tape and bed tape on all joints and corners with material used to set tiles (details on page 8).
Caulk or seal fixture/plumbing penetrations and abutments to dissimilar materials.
Do not use all-purpose joint compound or paper tape in wet areas.
In areas outside the shower where DensShield Tile Backer meets gypsum board: (1) If the tiles fall over the DensShield Tile
Backer-to-gypsum board joint, apply 2” (51 mm) wide fiberglass mesh tape and skim with tile setting material (Type I mastic
ANSI 136.1 or latex modified thin-set ANSI A118.4). (2) If the tiles stop before the DensShield Tile Backer-to-gypsum board
joint, apply 2” (51 mm) wide fiberglass mesh tape and skim with setting type joint compound to achieve a smooth and paintable
surface. (3) For areas that will not be exposed directly to moisture, all-purpose joint compound may be used.
Do not install vapor barriers directly behind DensShield panels. DensShield has a built-in moisture barrier; a #15 felt behind the
DensShield is permissible if required by local code jurisdiction. Additional waterproofing systems may be installed over the face
of DensShield panels.
Do not use DensShield as a radiant barrier behind fireplaces.
Not for exterior use.
Do not apply DensShield directly to concrete or masonry block.
Framing or furring of the wall is necessary.
 

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I used fibafuse and redguard.
 

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I used fibafuse and redguard.
Redguard is overkill in this case.........Sorry. Self stick mesh and trowel mastic is all you need.


Also, I was never a big fan of Densshield in wet applications. But for that use it can't hurt.
 

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Redguard is overkill in this case.........Sorry. Self stick mesh and trowel mastic is all you need.


Also, I was never a big fan of Densshield in wet applications. But for that use it can't hurt.
It's almost become the "standard" in showers around here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies. Can I use the fibafuse over the spots that peeled away?
 

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Any screw heads or dings I just dabbed with RedGuard. I did the first coat with a 4" taping knife, second coat I used a brush.
 
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