[DaveNJ]

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

 

[steves]

If you use the same set up you drew but use a 2x12 beam ,you still have 3/4" for shimming/leveling
And use a 4x4 post base

 

[shanekw1]

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

 

[jhark123]

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

My lumber yard has brackets that can be adjusted for height 0-6" (think HDG threaded rod and an adjustable nut to give clearance). That being said I wouldn't worry about the short post, I would just soak the entire piece in a bucket of end treat solution for as long as possible.

 

[CookeCarpentry]

No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

x2 with Shane's advice.

And you can get the piers pretty darn close to perfect taking your time with measurements and either a laser level or string line.

 

[bert0168]

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

That would be my suggestion.

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc. :thumbsup:

 

[shanekw1]

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc. :thumbsup:

This would be good advice.



I poured all these in place before I stuck the beam in there.

 

[genecarp]

ME thinks a HO was just told how to deal with his deck:whistlingGMOD,,,FOC

 

[CookeCarpentry]

ME thinks a HO was just told how to deal with his deck:whistlingGMOD,,,FOC

doh! :bangin:

 

[shanekw1]

I blame all the candy for breakfast.

 

[Tom Struble]

That would be my suggestion.

Oh and also, maybe an introduction as to who you are, where you are, etc. :thumbsup:

he has done this already:whistlinghttp://www.contractortalk.com/f44/hello-n-j-67011/

 

[stp57]

I would make those mini posts from composite glued together for thickness. It would certainly hold up better than wood.
Steve

For a low-profile (but not ground level) deck, what's the shortest I can go with a notched 6x6 post? With an overall grade to deck surface height of 22", using a typical post and beam construction eats up my post height quickly when I factor in pier rising 2" above grade, a 1" post standoff, doubled 2x10 beam, 2x8 joist and 5/4 decking.

As such, I'm left with a measly 2.75" of post surface to support the beam. Seems like so little wood between fresh cuts is a recipe for disaster. Barely makes 6" clearance between beam and soil, too.

I suppose I could go without the cantilevered beam and go with a flush header (where beams and joists are flush at the top. Never did one of those, but it would seem the post centers would really need to be precise (no fudge factor).

Another thought I had was doing a beam to pier design, where the beams are strapped to the concrete pier tops (no post), but using larger lumber for the beams to get the height. No easy way to adjust for level, though if the piers aren't perfect.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

 

[DaveNJ]

I would pour the piers 3.75" higher, and set the beam in saddles on the piers.

I had thought of that, but with no cantilever, I didn't want to end up with this (apologies to original poster -- see below). Can't cover that with cladding or lattice -- maybe a shrub.

 

[Tom Struble]

hey i know that deck:blink:

 

[PA woodbutcher]

he has done this already:whistlinghttp://www.contractortalk.com/f44/hello-n-j-67011/

2 different Daves....DaveNJ adn Dave67

 

[Tom Struble]

ah ty pa:thumbsup: my bad

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

hey i know that deck:blink:

Me too!!

I still don't know the reason for that but, it does look a little funny.

 

[Tom Struble]

i did the siding on the house
thats my debris strewn about in the background

 

[carpentershane]

http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/EPB44T.asp#gallery

Someone already alluded to this I think, but this might be a decent solution to your conundrum.

 

[Tom Struble]

conundrum:thumbsup:very good Shane thats gotta be worth 25 points:thumbup: