The decking is dense. I think you need a 3/16 bit. At leastth at's what fastenmaster suggest with treat.

 

Ok will try a larger bit. Didn't have any issues when it was warmer.

Thanks!

 

This thread has everything you need to know on the subject.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f50/cortex-spinning-out-fiberon-136380/#post1793466

The new cortex screw is designed to "auger" out some deck material before it really starts to pull itself down. Give it a few seconds of just spinning before applying much pressure. This will help you get better result.

Also, the most important thing is that you NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use an impact. Use a regular drill. I was just doing this the other day and having the same issue. I use my dewalt 20v drill at speed 3 on clutch setting 11. If you do this you will notice a night and day difference and have only a fraction of the spin outs.

I found that giving the screw some time to do its thing and auger out some material gave better results than predrilling. I found that when I predrilled the hole that was left after screwing it was not as clean and more full of debris which didn't yield itself as well to accepting the plug.

More caution is needed when going into end grain on stingers as well. Something to be aware of.

Check out that thread above.

 

Thanks! will try this.

 

What decking are you installing?

 

Fiberon Horizon. Color Rosewood.

No issues yesterday, switched to a bigger bit. I will try without using a driver just to experiment.

 

On the capped composite I always predrill with a forstner bit. A slow start will usually do the trick as the problem with the capped composites is that the cap isn't drilled out enough by the screw to allow for the composite chips to be ejected, which leads to either a bulge around the screw or the screw will not drive far enough. The problem for me is that "usually" A few stripped screws or bulges take a lot longer to fix than just using the forstner.

I only use the cortex on the picture frame and steps. I use TC-G for the actual decking.

 

I hate those screws. The heads would often strip right before the screw was counter sunk.

Predrilling sounded like a good option.

 

With the drill set to high speed, install the Cortex screw into the deck, allowing the screw
to rotate freely on the deck surface for a few seconds before threading into the deck.
Drive each screw in one continuous motion. Do not slow or stop until the setting tool has
disengaged automatically from the screw.
· Install two screws per joist, making sure they are perpendicular to deck boards. If
necessary sister a block of wood to the joist so the screw can be driven perpendicular.
· Place the Cortex plug into the cored-out hole and gently tap until it is flush with the deck
surface.
· Periodically change a worn driver bit for a fresh bit at least every 125 screws.
· Pre drilling is required when installing screws near the ends of the board. Using a 5/32”
or 3/16” bit, pre drill only the deck material (not the framing) prior to installing the screw.
· Pre drilling is usually necessary when installing decking over existing (old) framing, for
boards measuring over 1 ¼” in thickness, or in cold weather installations (below 40
degrees). Use a 1/8” or 9/64” drill bit to drill through the deck board and into the joist the
full length of the bit.
· If damage occurs to the screw while being driven, do not continue to drive the screw in.
Back it out and install a new screw.
· If you experience a consistent problem installing the screws after applying the above
recommendations, please contact FastenMaster before continuing your project. In most
cases we can determine the cause and solve the issue over the phone.
Special Instructions for Trex Transcend Installation
· For best results use a drill with a ½” chuck either corded or battery powered of at
least 18 volts. Use the drill on high speed.
· If difficultly is experienced installing the screw predrill through the deck board with a
5/32” drill bit. Do not predrill into the joist.
Special Instructions for TimberTech Earthwood Evolutions Installation
· For best results use a drill with a ½” chuck either corded or battery powered of at
least 18 volts. Use the drill on high speed.
· Predrill through the deck board with a 5/32” drill bit. Do not predrill into the joist.
Removing a Plug and Screw
· Using a trim screw (#7 or smaller), center the point in the plug you are looking to
remove. Slowly install the screw until the point passes through the plug and “bottoms
out” on the screw head below. Remove the plug using the screw as a handle.
· With a standard #1 square drive bit (not the setting tool), carefully engage the recess of
the embedded Cortex screw. On slow speed, centering your weight over the drill,
reverse the screw out of the deck.
Removing a Damaged Screw
· If the head is above the deck surface, use one of the following methods:
o Remove the driver bit from your drill and open the chuck wide enough to capture
the head of the screw. Tighten the chuck firmly around the head and set the drill
in reverse and on low speed. Slowly draw the fastener out of the deck.
o If you prefer to use Vise-Grips, grasp the screw head but be sure to protect the
deck surface from tool marks by providing enough clearance between the tool
and the deck’s surface.
· If the head is at or slightly below the deck surface, use these methods in order:
o Use an impact driver with a new standard #1 square drive. Set the tool on
reverse, align

 

Nice post, Tom.

 

Tom -- Your detailed thread unfortunately just trails off exactly where I need to hear more about removing a Cortex screw where the head is at or slightly below the surface. All I see is this:

· If the head is at or slightly below the deck surface, use these methods in order:
o Use an impact driver with a new standard #1 square drive. Set the tool on
reverse, align

It just ends after the word (or part of the word) "align".

Can anyone help me by sharing the ENTIRE section of what to do when the head is at or slightly below the deck surface? And, yes, I realize this is a really old thread but it seems to have the best chance of solving my current problem

 

This site is for professional contractors visit DIYchatroom.

 

It's pretty easy to clear this up. If you are in the construction trades, it is customary and respectful to post an introduction telling everyone a little about what you do.

 

Thanks. I get it. I'll see myself out now...

 

Pros from here regularly post over at the DIY site. You'll get some good advice over there.

 

Momma always said use the brains that God gave you and so, well I did. Installing a Trex deck for the very first time on my own home and ran into all the problems that are associated with this overpriced material. My biggest complaint was as is others. My pro plug struggles to countersink both the pro plug and deck force 3” composite screws. Heaven forbid you hit a knot or a hard spot in the lumber and opps there goes another driver tip. So the real solution to and old and continuing problem is simple but a little more time consuming. But my results were flawless. The Trex plugs that I’m using are measured at roughly a 9/32 mark. I grabbed a 1/4” Forstner bit and pre drilled all my holes using the shank of the bit as a dept guide which is 5/16” to 3/8” deep. Beautiful clean glorious composite holes. Now with my impact driver and t-20 bit and the large cutting head of the screw I was able to sink every last screw to a dept that excepted by every last lava rock plug that was needed. Not one had to be cut and especially not one had to be driven with a nail set and lump hammer. No spin outs and a solid install. I know this is an old thread but guys do land on it like I did. Hoping it helps the next guy. ✌🏻