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Deck framing

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1.7K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  Calson01  
#1 ·
Thinking of going with composite decking as I redo my decks. Problem is the framing. Pressure treated dimensional framing lumber is good for about 10-15 years now a days, where I live and the decking is good for 25-50 years(they claim anyhow) So what is the solution? What to build the frame out of so it might have a chance to last longer? Thoughts appreciated.. Wish I could get some old CCA lumber that actually lasted decades.
 
#6 ·
Smart design above all else for framing longevity.
Along with best flashing practices. But avoid direct wood/wood contacts. Give proper drainage gaps where needed, maintain those gaps and don’t let it become leaf and tree debris pockets 24/7

what part of the country is not allowing framing to make 25 years?

cold galvi paint the hardware before the rust sets it. Z-max is minimal and where’s away just like anything.

make lead paint. Ssshhhh.
 
#12 ·
I don’t always.
but have. Most of my deck building was for someone else.
Too often I’ve seen what you just said. 15k in synthetic decking over tired old framing trying to save 2k.
Just silly. But, if wanting longevity as long as possible, there is a science to avoiding wood/wood contacts as much as possible.
Just like for years it was “ get it right, get it tight”
Now it’s all about rain screens, air flow, even on post base trim wrappings.
but what’s not discussed is keeping those areas from Becoming jam packed with organic debris and still harboring moisture for prolonged periods of time.

even just painting every edge and yes, adding copper green to every cut will increase life span.
but if you frame and build it all, then have Joe blow paint on the undercarriage only hitting what’s visible, that in time could trap things within the wood and allow harm that’s harder to notice go about over time.
Metal is great, long as not to avoid rust. Longest lasting is stone, long as done right it can be earthquake proof as needed
 
#19 ·
What real world is that? Nobody here knows where you live or what trade you're in. The real world you want to do this deck in is wherever you are. Not all materials are suitable for every climate.

Cedar used to be used almost exclusively around here 20-30 years ago, except for tract homes and customers wanting an economical deck. It would easily last a couple decades or more with regular maintenance. Now it's hard to get cedar without a ridiculous amount of knots, plus it's getting so costly (about 2.25/lf for 5/4x6) that composite is more attractive with the lower maintenance aspect.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Tape is mostly useful to isolate water absorption to the lower members of a deck. Laminated lumber areas will trap water and encourage rot. .15 ACQ is garbage in Michigan climates and will rot at trapped water locations above grade in under 10 years.

Therefore, joist tape topside is only going to protect the framing. Wood decking is toast unless other protections provided/ applied.

Protect water intrusion to beam to post connections, joist to ledger/beam, laminated beams, 2x tread to 2x risers, etc.

Otherwise, as I mentioned, you can still get .60 CCA lumber. Or, you can also request .23 MCA treated lumber which they rate as comparable to .60 CCA. I doubt it is, but maybe time will tell.

 
#21 ·
If there are problems with PT framing then the work was not done properly. There needs to be ventilation under the decking and often I see where someone thinks it looks better with the sides covered.

Redwood or cedar decking today is nothing like what was available 30 years ago and this is why I replaced my own redwood decks with ipe and stone pavers. Ipe will last 3-5 times as long as any other wood. The stone pavers will outlast me and my house.

Silca Systems and other companies make plastic grids that attach to the joists and provide a surface for pavers or tiles. They provide tables to make it easy to know how much of a load will need to be supported and up size the joists and footings.

I pressure wash the stone decking once a year and that is all that is needed.
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I use only hot dipped bolts and nuts for the bracing so they last as long as the PT joists.