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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
will the shears cut a pitch on corrugated (polebarn)steel with out mashing it to hell? If they work i'm sold! Using a angle grinder with a cutting wheel is sucking my will and a metal circular saw blade has me cutting on the inside of the panel to keep from maring or scratching the finnish.
I just finnished a 50'x 90' polebarn and the guy down the street stoped by needing a bid to side his huge gambrel gable barn(over 100 years old).
I could almost turn down the money because of the freaking noise cutting the crap.
Brent
 

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wickedcarpenter said:
a metal circular saw blade has me cutting on the inside of the panel to keep from maring or scratching the finnish.
Brent
Use a 1/4" Launne 'running-board', - - you can even attach a 'cleat' to it to serve as a straight-edge to guide your saw for a perfect cut.

Cut a length of Launne about 9 or 10" wide, - - attach a 'straight-cleat' (1 X 2 or 1 X 3) along one edge of it, - - then run (the 'wide-side' of) your saw-shoe along the cleat, cutting right thru the plywood, - - now the 'cut' edge of your plywood can be set right in 'alignment' of where you want to cut.

Also, - - your best bet is a 'dry' metal-cutting diamond blade. Probably run you about $60 minimum for a decent one - - but you'll get your money's worth.
 

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I'm no roofer, but I did put corrugated metal on the sides and roof of an outbuilding of mine. I used a plywood blade installed backwards in a circular saw, just like you do for aluminium siding. It was effortless, and I had no special troubles (except for the noise).

EDIT... sorry, I see that grumpy already offered that. That's what I get for speed reading.
 

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Just make sure no one is running blades 'backwards' that have carbide teeth, - - they'll fly off and put your damn eye out!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I always set up a cutting jig on horses for the skill saw for straight cuts and the roof pitch when using a circular saw. It's just the noise after a 1,000 cuts that is stuck in my head :mad: Will the sheares cut on a pitch no problem?
Thanks Brent.
 

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Wick try some ear plugs or some kind of hearing protection. The sound will rattle your teeth and make you deaf especially when i ask to borrow five bucks. huh?
R
 

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unless you're using really heavy gauge metal the shears shouldn't mash it. you just need to make sure you have a really good air compressor. if it doesn't have enough power, the shears won't cut worth a damn. so check your specs first. and don't use electric ones at all ,they are junk. the backwords plywood blade works well too. however, it may drive you and any neighbors,nucking futs.
 

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Many moons ago I used to sub from a big insurance corp. Had a re mod on a kit, reg installer walked off, I was sent in late on a Fri eve. Cabinets didn't fit. Last second repair, fresh from a new construction landscape prep, I didn't even have my sawzall to make a wall alteration.

So. I tell the lady, I'm on the job, alls in the clear, however I just got the work order and need to regroup, we'll be here Monday morning.

Shes pissed, I've been waiting, they've been paid, bla bla bla.

While I'm looking things over and taking notes she calls the CEO from the corp at home and he wants me on the phone.

how long ya worked for me Bob? This guy's high enough up I don't even know him. Would ya like to keep working for me? I don't care what you have to do those cabinets go in before you leave, did I studder?

Well that was the wrong thing to say to me.

When I fired up that chain saw in the kitchen all my fellas ran out the back to keep the customer from hearing them laugh. The whole house filled up with the oil/gas smoke and smell in seconds. It was one of my brightest moments.

The cabinets went in, looked good too, needless to say every corp rep was real careful what they said to me from that day on.

Bob
 

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couldn't find any cabinet pics,but oh-my-GOD!! you actually did that?a chainsaw? damn, you're my hero! by the way- in one of your pics(cathedral ceiling,loft, lotsa wood)what did you use for rafters? i've got a client who's looking at a project similar to that. it looked like something engineered,but i couldn't tell from the pic.
 

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I'm assuming your talking about 1010064 in the Tour album.

The ceiling is 1x6 car siding, T&G. All the rails poles trim ect, I fabricated out of No. 2 pine. Took a little waste to get the best of it, but I still think I came out ($) ahead of C and better.

The rafters are 2x10 24 OC and the ridge is a micro lam, can't remember exact dimensions but it was 36 ft long.

Bob

A pair of twins 1 3/4 x 20 (I remembered)
 

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yeah, that was it. awesome work man,i'm impressed. i'm planning on building a new house in the next few years,and i have something similar in mind for it. do you remember what stain you used on that? i really like the color. i'm planning on approx. 30'wide x 60' long with a cathedral ceiling for the main house(kitchen&family room only) and i don't care much for cathedral trusses. i'm thinking of using an engineered ridge and 2 x 12 rafters 24"O.C. T&G beadboard in the fam. room and 1/2" drywall in the kitchen. i'm up to code with 24" centers, but have been considering 16's to avoid any future problems with a span that wide. just like to get your opinion. thanks.
 

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With a good set of forearms bulldog snips work well and for more intricate cuts your red, green, and yellow aviation snips work as well.
 
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