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That does actually cut faster and straighter, but if/when it jumps out, things will get damaged.
Slow and steady. But what's going to get damaged under there? No finished surfaces to worry about. (toekick ....who cares? - cover it)

Edit: toekick saw from harbor freight.....$69?...I'm sold.
 

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Slow and steady. But what's going to get damaged under there? No finished surfaces to worry about. (toekick ....who cares? - cover it)
I am just approaching it cautiously until I know what gets saved. Get a chainsaw if you want speed and don't care about the carnage.

I have one of those Bosch flush cut saws that I have never used. I think this is another job that it would NOT be suited for. Some day I will find a use for it.
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEdLWBTp4Ws

I agree with Warren....One bad hit with a sawzall blade and start jabbing the cabinets.
For $70 I'd go with the toe kick saw @ HF. Even if it last for only 5 or 6 projects it's be worth the money. Or spend about $250-$300 for a Crain.
I've got the crain, but I thought they'd discontinued making it. Think they lost a lawsuit, but I could be wrong.
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEdLWBTp4Ws

I agree with Warren....One bad hit with a sawzall blade and start jabbing the cabinets.
For $70 I'd go with the toe kick saw @ HF. Even if it last for only 5 or 6 projects it's be worth the money. Or spend about $250-$300 for a Crain.
How would the cabinets get jabbed? Even with a skipped-out blade, I don't see how that would happen. What am I missing? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Going to stop HF on the way to the job Saturday. Tried a wide flush cut blade with ossc. tool but it was painfully. Removing 5/8" subfloor and laying 3/4" hardwoods Monday. There's another layer of 5/8" subfloor under the one I'm removing.
Frigging ring shank nails really do hold well. The plywoods busting up over the nail head, while the nail stays put. Made for a long day.
 

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I am guessing that you haven't plunge cut with a long blade on a sawzall in an awkward position very often.
:eek: Uh, ok. You seem like a good guy so I'm going to ignore that. Care to answer without a cut like that? Much appreciated. (I promise to read slowly so I might learn something.) And just to be clear, I'm willing to sacrifice the toe-kick and glue on another face, if necessary.
 

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Mark, I think he was being serious.

Plunge cutting with a long blade will most likely get kicked back a few times resulting in damage.
 

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:eek: Uh, ok. You seem like a good guy so I'm going to ignore that. Care to answer without a cut like that? Much appreciated. (I promise to read slowly so I might learn something.) And just to be clear, I'm willing to sacrifice the toe-kick and glue on another face, if necessary.
I was just making an assumption based on your previous posts. Getting a sawzall to follow that awkward track can be done, but is very risky. A 12" blade can bump out very easily when trying to plunge on that angle with the blade torqued. I have made these cuts many times. Being a framer I am pretty skilled with a reciprocating saw. If your gonna replace the toe kick, you may as well just snap it off before making the cut. That would make the cut easier and lessen the risk of damage to the cabinet or the operator.
 

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Mark, I think he was being serious.

Plunge cutting with a long blade will most likely get kicked back a few times resulting in damage.
Thanks. Still don't get it. If we're cutting out subfloor under a cabinet, no way I'd let it hit the cabinet front. Who knows, maybe I'm just too good with them.... :) Whatever.
 
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