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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently building my first custom shower and have just completed the final thick bed mortar a day ago. After checking the slope (looking for either 1/3 bubble on a torpedo level or 1/4" rise per linear foot) some areas are not sloping properly due to poor screeding. In some areas the surface is wavey and the worse spot is level from the wall to the drain. I am making it sound like it is a terrible job, however, I think I may be a little picky since this is my first job like this. When I roll a marble around, 80% of the time it finds it's way to the drain. I am using Laticrete's Hydroban and have done everything by-the-book up to this point. I will be applying the final coating of Hydroban once 72 hours has expired on the final thick bed mortar application. I am figuring that everything is ok because I can pay close attention to the thin set application to make everything perfect. Need I worry so much???
 

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If level from wall to drain in a spot, no way thinset is going to help fix it, especially using small tile.

How exactly did you construct this pan using Hydroban?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From the plywood floor up: Felt moisture barier, metal lath, thick bed mortar (sloped 1/4" per linear foot)(this layer was good), Hydroban - 2 coats per manufacturers instructions - up walls - over curb..., clamped drain, crushed stone around drain to protect weep holes, thick bed mortar (this is the application that I am worried about) next will be the final 2 coats of Hydroban over the last application of mortar.


The base area is less than 9 sqft. This is a small shower. From the drain to the back wall is only 12", so the total slope for the back corner is only 1/4". The primary thick bed was sloped properly.

I have attached a pic of the space.

How should I proceed?
 

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go with slightly larger tiles, (no 2x2s) while your base is not great, it is not deserving of a ripout IMO, this tiny shower can be tweeked with the thinset...
 

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Seeing it's only 12" to the wall in the bad spot, if carefull, you can screed a bit of thinset to get that slope, don't make it thicker than 1/4" anywhere, let it cure overnight before tiling.

Shave down the high spot with a rubbing stone.

I would use 2x2s or smaller tile here.

Don't think it's great idea to Hydroban the final mud bed, you will be creating a moisture sandwich, maybe just coat it at the wall seams out about six inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Seeing it's only 12" to the wall in the bad spot, if carefull, you can screed a bit of thinset to get that slope, don't make it thicker than 1/4" anywhere, let it cure overnight before tiling.

Shave down the high spot with a rubbing stone.

I would use 2x2s or smaller tile here.

Don't think it's great idea to Hydroban the final mud bed, you will be creating a moisture sandwich, maybe just coat it at the wall seams out about six inches.
Sounds great. I will tweak the slope with thinset prior to tile. The second coat of Hydroban is optional, I may skip it. The data sheet says that once dry, the membrain allows vapor to escape while still maintaining a waterproof seal.

Any tricks to getting a good screed finish?
 

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Place thinset, make it a little on the tight side, but loose enough to work, a lot of help there eh.

Now take the flat side of a trowel, hold it tight down at the drain area and up to the height you need at the wall, about that 1/4" and turn it over the thinset holding it at that angle, hard to explain, now try and smooth out the corner, hard to do with thinset, it's not easy working it like this, but can be done.

Any ridges can be sanded down easy the next day with a brick or rubbing stone, hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Place thinset, make it a little on the tight side, but loose enough to work, a lot of help there eh.

Now take the flat side of a trowel, hold it tight down at the drain area and up to the height you need at the wall, about that 1/4" and turn it over the thinset holding it at that angle, hard to explain, now try and smooth out the corner, hard to do with thinset, it's not easy working it like this, but can be done.

Any ridges can be sanded down easy the next day with a brick or rubbing stone, hope this helps.
Sounds like I can do it! I will post pics in a few days. Still got another 36 hours or so till the last mortar bed dries. Thanks Again:clap:
 
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