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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Need some assistance with hanging drywall underneath a curved stair. Drywallers are long gone -- it's the stair builders fault -- he was late! Now I'm left with closing the bottom of the stairs myself. The stairs curve 360 degrees from 2nd floor to main floor. On initial inspection there are 3 angles to deal with. I blocked the inside stingers at equal heights, measured from the bottom of the stringer. The drywall will mount to these blocks. I tried cutting a cardboard template to help on the circular portion by it seems the width is OK but as you try and attached the 1/2" board along the curve section the angles don't mesh. Any experience with this would be appreciated.
 

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KemoSabe
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When we do curved stairs, along with your nailers, we take metal studs and tab the ends to fasten them to the blocks. The metal studs will twist to acommodate the helic curve of the stairs. We will put these at a maximum 16" center. The rock can then be "broken" on these studs and fastened securely, we use 1/4" board, 2 layers.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Loneframer, I'm not sure I follow you exactly. Can you elaborate a little more? Much appreciated.
 

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KemoSabe
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Loneframer, I'm not sure I follow you exactly. Can you elaborate a little more? Much appreciated.
I wish I had pics, but if you were to take a 2x4 and span it across the opening flatways, it would lay flush with one side, but on the opposite side the end would not sit flush because the helix changes with the radius. In other words the 2x4 will "rock" somewhat. A metal stud lain flat however, will twist enough to follow the change. All you need to do is notch the edges of the studs to get them to sit flat on the nailer blocks. Did I make any sense of this?:thumbsup:
 

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KemoSabe
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That's pretty self-evident from here. I suspect fpro's quandary is:



Are you talking about scoring and snapping, or just forcing it until it goes "crick!"?
Simply that the edge of the sheet will be cut to land on the stud for positive fastening.:thumbsup:Thanks Tin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I see. Does the cross member need to sit level crossing the span against the nailer blocks I already positioned or can it follow the helix equal distance up from the bottom of stringer? The nailer blocks on both sides are 6.5" up from the bottom of the stringer, however I do notice that the inner helix stringer is somewhat at a highr level than the outside stringer. Especially as you approach the 360 degree turn.
 

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KemoSabe
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I see. Does the cross member need to sit level crossing the span against the nailer blocks I already positioned or can it follow the helix equal distance up from the bottom of stringer? The nailer blocks on both sides are 6.5" up from the bottom of the stringer, however I do notice that the inner helix stringer is somewhat at a highr level than the outside stringer. Especially as you approach the 360 degree turn.
Be most concerned at the bottom of the staircase, sometimes the outer stringer is lower than the inner, which allows for it to finish like my pic. The rock goes past the inner stringer to the drywall and butts the outer stringer, it will be evident at the bottom where my baseboard runs across.
An even reveal on the bottom of the stringer is the desired finish, I usually use the treads on the steps as a guide to keep the studs in proper orientation. I would not be concerned about being level so much as keeping the desired reveal. Sounds like your already on the right track.:thumbsup:
 

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KemoSabe
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fpro, please take plenty of pics and post them on this thread. I'm sure many guys will learn something from your project.:thumbsup:
 

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KemoSabe
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fpro, go back to my edited post, it addresses the question about the inner stringer being lower than the outer.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Will do my best. Not totally confident with the approach but plan to investigate it further. One way or another will get it done!
 

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KemoSabe
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Will do my best. Not totally confident with the approach but plan to investigate it further. One way or another will get it done!
Just don't try to rush it. Once you start tinkering with the metal studs, it will become self evident. The metal studs are key to a successful finish in my opinion. Did you go back to my edited post addressing the inner and outer stringers?:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just don't try to rush it. Once you start tinkering with the metal studs, it will become self evident. The metal studs are key to a successful finish in my opinion. Did you go back to my edited post addressing the inner and outer stringers?:thumbsup:
Yes I did read it. I won't have to concern myself too much with this issue as the stairs eventually go straight again once you come out of the 360 degree turn. Much the same way you see it on the top portion of the stairs (refer back to the image I posted), but will keep this in mind. I now understand what you are referring to the cross metal members. How do you prevent them from buckling if you are to push the rock against them and force the shape by breaking it? I would think the metal if unsupported will just bend in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Been awhile since I framed this one. Can't remember how we framed it underneath
Hi Warren, your stairs have a fairly gentle curvature. The stairs I'm working on turn 180 degrees and go in the opposite direction towards the middle of the stairs. The curvature underneath is very steep and I'm working with various compound angles. The drywall isn't easy to cut or position as a result.

Loneframer has given some very good advice on how to approach this problem. If you recall anything from your project would be interested in knowing it.
 

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KemoSabe
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Yes I did read it. I won't have to concern myself too much with this issue as the stairs eventually go straight again once you come out of the 360 degree turn. Much the same way you see it on the top portion of the stairs (refer back to the image I posted), but will keep this in mind. I now understand what you are referring to the cross metal members. How do you prevent them from buckling if you are to push the rock against them and force the shape by breaking it? I would think the metal if unsupported will just bend in the middle.
When you install the metal studs, you will have to twist them slightly to follow the curve. They will actually be surprisingly ridgid after they are fastened, even though they are flat. If you use 1/4" rock, it will be flexible enough to follow the curve without forcing it too much, by "breaking" I merely meant that the seam of the sheet would land on the stud, although you will most likely have to cut it to do so.:thumbsup:
 

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I wonder if you were to use some 2x material that was twisted if it would somewhat follow the twist of the stairs while still giving you some rigidity. Maybe even hang a sheet first letting it run wild past some framing that is installed with edges purlined and then cut drywall parallel with one of the treads and install the 2x4 at this joint while the board is in position. You seem to have a good grasp of whats going on and I'm sure you will resolve this. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 
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