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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In my 30 years of framing I never seen anything more complicated or with as much steel as this house. Entire roof is all handcut....some of the spans were too long for standard lumber so LVL's were necessary.. Started it in November and is still going on. Framingpro actually came in for a day and had some fun....lol....wasn't it fun Nic ?:thumbup1:
 

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I hate it when you get snow in the attic. How long are those rafters? I believe I've heard you don't get the long stuff in Canada that we do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am telling everyone the same.......I think the other guys on the crew were a bit jealous...:w00t: lol. Ya.....I wish I could post more photo's.....maybe Nic you can tell me how I can set up a link...I tried to attach a link with photobucket but was not successful...anyways....the lumber in Canada is available......but sometimes special orders can be delayed..fortunately we have had no issues other than the extreme cold...faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaak !!!!! but thx guys for the compliment....I love framing....especially when you find another framer who you click with instantly...ain't that right Mr. Cristmas (saint Nic).....hehehehe:thumbup:
 

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That is awesome! Looks like alot of fun from a framing perspective. Bidding not so much though. I wish we did more with steel and hand frame roofs. We just started with a high end home builder so fingers crossed. Looks really great though. I noticed that the plumb cut at the top of the long lvl rafters isn't supported along its full length by a ledger. Is that not a big deal by you? Some of our inspectors get real picky about that
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you're right about the bidding...fortunately for me, I am getting paid(my company) per hour per man. so the noose is done away with and it becomes way easier to focus on the complexities of this job. I am loving it because winter framing is never easy to make money....25-30% of cost goes out the window.....at -30 degrees....bone chilling expense...lol. I will keep adding to the album..in fact I plan to update the start of it.....60% of the roof is complete and there is still some huge round roofs to build front and back....front with a diameter of 18 feet and the back is close to 30 feet. The roof pitch is a 14/12 so the plumb cuts on a 12" LVL is over 18 inches. The ledger face on the flat roof is 14.25" which constitutes over 75% of the plumb cut. As long as the engineer puts his stamp on the structural drawing, the building inspectors can not over ride them. Personally, I like notching the ridge board into the plumb cuts at the bottom and letting the rafters meet at the top and then firing in spacer blocks above that for nailing the plywood at the peak. Okay so when you do your math...you determine the height of your ridge, the length of your plumb cut and set the beam ridge accordingly. This is for roofs such as a 14/12 where the plumb cuts are longer then the depth of your ridge board...it works beauts !!! Thanks for the post.....I love talking about framing !!!! I am new here but I hope to settle in soon......lots of work I would love to post...lots.....lol
 

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you're right about the bidding...fortunately for me, I am getting paid(my company) per hour per man. so the noose is done away with and it becomes way easier to focus on the complexities of this job. I am loving it because winter framing is never easy to make money....25-30% of cost goes out the window.....at -30 degrees....bone chilling expense...lol. I will keep adding to the album..in fact I plan to update the start of it.....60% of the roof is complete and there is still some huge round roofs to build front and back....front with a diameter of 18 feet and the back is close to 30 feet. The roof pitch is a 14/12 so the plumb cuts on a 12" LVL is over 18 inches. The ledger face on the flat roof is 14.25" which constitutes over 75% of the plumb cut. As long as the engineer puts his stamp on the structural drawing, the building inspectors can not over ride them. Personally, I like notching the ridge board into the plumb cuts at the bottom and letting the rafters meet at the top and then firing in spacer blocks above that for nailing the plywood at the peak. Okay so when you do your math...you determine the height of your ridge, the length of your plumb cut and set the beam ridge accordingly. This is for roofs such as a 14/12 where the plumb cuts are longer then the depth of your ridge board...it works beauts !!! Thanks for the post.....I love talking about framing !!!! I am new here but I hope to settle in soon......lots of work I would love to post...lots.....lol
Good point on the plumb cut. :thumbsup:
 

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On the few roof i have hand framed, i set the ridge at the short point of the plumb cut and leave the top open for venting. It works with both ridge vents and the normal pod vents. I believe its called a "Boston ridge"
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My framing jobs don't seem so hard now. Nice work there! So nice to work T&M in the winter. I would like to do all T&M in the winter, then go back to bid work for the nice weather. Any takers?
Thanks for the compliments fellas......I luv building and I luv framing...keeps me young and honest.... :laughing: . Ya ...T&M is the way to go in the winter..and back to pc work when the days are lest hindered by the weather....
.......and G V.........honestly , I have never seen heavier gaged steel either...in 30 yrs framing......but as you can see with these spans, a conventional roof like this needs it !!!!! Lots of glue...everywhere the wood was attached to the steel...we used it. I have built tons of track development houses.....and though the money is pretty good....you still have to love going to work....and I have rediscovered my passion for framing on this one....cheers...
Kev
 

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Fantastic work. Those look like copper valleys and vents that have been installed in the one pic? I'd love to see how it looks finished. Is it kind of a heritage style? Custom framing is awesome, I'm sure it's hard to get bored on a job like that.
 
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