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· Registered
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104 Posts
1. set up a jig before you start cutting.


2. make practice cuts on scrap. I have been doing this for years and I still use scrap pieces to fit a cut just right.

3. Just like with anything else practice and experience are the best teachers.
 

· Maker of fine kindling
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6,211 Posts
The key to making crown molding installation easy and consistent is a chop saw that cuts well and very square and a good jig to hold the crown at the spring angle.

Notice that the crown is upside down. That is because you will be marking the cut on the bottom. Transfer your mark to the very bottom little shoulder and simply line that up with the kerf in the jig. That takes the eye balling part out of the equation.

If you are coping the inside corners do a search in the trim carp area and that will turn up all kinds of fun reading. Basswood has a video showing how he uses an angle grinder to do most of the back cutting. Good stuff in there.

Like others are telling you, you need practice. Crown molding is tricky for a lot of seasoned guys. Hang in there.

Machine Tool Miter saw Wood Tool accessory


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plywood Table
 

· Thom
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9,100 Posts
I learned upside down and backwards per the illustration by GUS. I tried using a compound saw. What a pain in the AS$ that was. Up-side-down and backwards is the way to go.

Great illustration Gus.
 

· Maker of fine kindling
Joined
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6,211 Posts
Am I the only one who uses the pre-set stops on a miter saw and lays the crown flat?
You are clearly in the minority but that don't make it wrong if it works for you.:thumbsup:

You are at the distinct advantage when it comes to those larger profiles that will not fit the throat of the saw standing up. You can hang your pride on that one.:thumbup:
 

· Project Manager
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2,657 Posts
You are at the distinct advantage when it comes to those larger profiles that will not fit the throat of the saw standing up.
Gus - this is exactly why I learned how to cut it that way.

I even had a chart at one time that I would cheat off of if the bottom or top was open, that would show me what degree to change the miter or bevel too. Now it's kind of ingrained.
 

· I like Green things
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24,340 Posts
Angle finder, Kapex, and crown stops. I am offically over coping for now.

I have done 3 small cut-up, wonky old kitchens, did not cope a single joint and it turned out better than when I coped and used my Bosch saw.

Thank you Kapex and your little angle thingy and your crown stops.

I hate, I mean refuse to cut crown flat. If it is bigger than 6 5/8" I suppose I have to.
 

· Banned
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669 Posts
When you cope your corners try putting the blade in your coping saw, backwards... Try coping by cutting on the pull stroke, I find it a lot easier. Also, if you have a dremel tool, try using it to fine tune the fit. Last thing to remember, if the joint won't go tight, and you can't see where its hitting, You have to back cut more.

Keep trying, and learn how to cope. You'll be better than most, eventually.
 

· Banned
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9,408 Posts
Angle finder, Kapex, and crown stops. I am offically over coping for now.

I have done 3 small cut-up, wonky old kitchens, did not cope a single joint and it turned out better than when I coped and used my Bosch saw.

Thank you Kapex and your little angle thingy and your crown stops.

I hate, I mean refuse to cut crown flat. If it is bigger than 6 5/8" I suppose I have to.
the kapex is just waaay too expensive....it's only for people with more money than brains.





































:w00t::w00t::w00t:
 

· Maker of fine kindling
Joined
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6,211 Posts
the kapex is just waaay too expensive....it's only for people with more money than brains.

:w00t::w00t::w00t:
That Kapex may seem spendy until you take a look at that little Italian fox of a saw in that post up there ^^^

Although I wouldn't want to carry it from where it is to the truck with out help from two young studs while I watched and cheered them on.:clap:
 
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