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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I went back to the job I had done 2 months ago. I saw cracks between walls and ceilings in few spots. I thinned the mud little bit for my “better then ever tools “and “super taper”. No cracks over windows or doors (no drywall joints over doors and windows). Framing was done in the summer (New England height humidity) and I taped right after. I did talk to sale rep from all-wall and he told me that is movement in the framing, humidity, new construction etc. I asked him if maybe I thinned the mud too much. He said no. What you guys think? How to talk to the customer if the cracks are not my fault?
 

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Welcome to the site! Sounds like you are in a hurry for a quick answer! (You even forgot to fill out your profile with location as well as do a quick intro in that section including how long you have been in business, etc.)

I don't think you're going to get much help here until you do that. In the meantime, search the threads.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry

I have been working in construction for 8 years. I taped quite few houses with no cracks (no calls back anyway) but just recently switched to “better than ever” and “super taper”.
 

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I have been working in construction for 8 years. I taped quite few houses with no cracks (no calls back anyway) but just recently switched to “better than ever” and “super taper”.

No need for an apology. I was just letting you know protocol at this site.
Now that you have completed your profile you have a better chance at getting some great advice here.

Enjoy, and jump in whenever you can.:thumbsup:
 

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Hairline, inside, second story cape, below 20 * 35 living room.
My last batch of hombrew has a bit of a metalic taste,,, what do you think caused this???? See what RS meant??? you got to give a bit more info ifin you expect a serious reply,,,, oh lets see??? did you use paper or mesh tape,,, gp or hot mud,,, what was the temp?,, did you push it and run them corners while they were still wet??? I could go on,, but I'm still wondering what went wrong with my homebrew.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Capt read my post first please, before you make sarcastic comment. I wrote “super taper” that will means no mesh. I did not use hot mud as well. What else you need to know?
 

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I used to run the super taper and BTE's and it has a tendency to put less mud on the tape than say a bazooka - any significant gaps between the ceiling and wall could have created hollows behind the tape and led to cracks. Did you prefill?

As long as you rolled the corners and coated them twice, the only other causes would be truss uplift or movement in the building due to drying/settling.

If you were using a thin mud and it dried out quickly that would have caused cracks as well, but they would have been obvious as soon as it was painted if not sooner.

A trick, if you're using the direct flushers, is to remove the center piece that covers the hole - makes for an easier push and you can use thicker mud.

As far as the customer is concerned - if there is any chance you're to blame suck it up and repair it - otherwise stick to your guns and practice your argument.

Good luck,
D'S
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
D's thank you. “Super taper” I can adjust that will be an easy fix in the future. I adjusted super taper for less mud (trying to be cleaner). I installed the tape than roller and flusher, maybe when I pulled the flusher I pushed to hard. I prefilled everything bigger then 1/8”. I installed tape and did 2 more coats after it. It is not drying for sure I know these. I used just flushers (not direct flushers) but I would like to do some thing so I can use thicker mud with out pushing so hard.
 

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D's thank you. “Super taper” I can adjust that will be an easy fix in the future. I adjusted super taper for less mud (trying to be cleaner). I installed the tape than roller and flusher, maybe when I pulled the flusher I pushed to hard. I prefilled everything bigger then 1/8”. I installed tape and did 2 more coats after it. It is not drying for sure I know these. I used just flushers (not direct flushers) but I would like to do some thing so I can use thicker mud with out pushing so hard.
Sorry if I offended you, sometimes I have that effect(not more than 90% tho) Sounds to me like you did everything right , by this despriction,,, I don't use BTE, but I do use angle heads. Don't worry about thinning it too much, THAT is NOT the problem. If the mud was DRY in between each coat,, then the problem lies in the framing OR the weather. The easiest and BEST fix for this is to get your pan with some mud in it, and use your finger to "caulk" the joint with mud,, works great, its fast, and the onlyyyyy way to go, try it, you;ll like it !!
 

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Zack,
If you're flushing really hard you could even be bending the ceiling board( if its on wide centers) and messing up your tape.

You really want to be using the thickest mud you can bear to push for corners - adding dishwashing liquid (ivory, sunlight) greatly improves workability - less push, and will reduce pinholes too.

If you can - spend some money on the right tools. Instead of flushing then coating twice, remove a step and try coating immediately with a 2.5 direct flusher(use finishing mud), once completely dry follow up with a 3 or a 3.5 for the 2nd coat. Angle heads are even easier to push and leave a better finish IMO, you just have to rig em up a little to fit on your applicator tube.

Also, you can rule out truss lift if there's a living room above. Sounds like you pushed too hard and thinned too much.

Good luck
D'S
 

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Though I can't speak of your taping skills, most likely it is the framing/humidity. The lumber shrunk, now if it had expanded instead a dead give away would have been nail/screw pops.

Always take pics :thumbsup:

That way you can fight it, I'm guessing there was a GC you subbed to and not direct to owner.

It's his issue until he tries to make it yours then you gotta work it out. Don't just fold...right is right. It was the GC's responsibility to check the moisture level of the lumber, on delivery, during storage, after install, before drywall.

I'm just telling you this because I know some GC's that take no site storage measures for lumber, lay it out in all kinds of conditions, frame out, don't seal/acclimatize, bring in the boarders, few months down the line things crack snap and pop and they're calling you back trying to hang you up on it.

May not be the case here, food for thought.:thumbsup:
 

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Jeff
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Zack,
If you're flushing really hard you could even be bending the ceiling board( if its on wide centers) and messing up your tape.

You really want to be using the thickest mud you can bear to push for corners - adding dishwashing liquid (ivory, sunlight) greatly improves workability - less push, and will reduce pinholes too.

If you can - spend some money on the right tools. Instead of flushing then coating twice, remove a step and try coating immediately with a 2.5 direct flusher(use finishing mud), once completely dry follow up with a 3 or a 3.5 for the 2nd coat. Angle heads are even easier to push and leave a better finish IMO, you just have to rig em up a little to fit on your applicator tube.

Also, you can rule out truss lift if there's a living room above. Sounds like you pushed too hard and thinned too much.

Good luck
D'S

We used to add dishwashing liquid to until we had a USG rep tell us under no circumstances should anything besides water be added to joint compound. Never really explained why but i figured to avoid any problems down the road that they could wash their hands of we quit doin it.
 

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We used to add dishwashing liquid to until we had a USG rep tell us under no circumstances should anything besides water be added to joint compound. Never really explained why but i figured to avoid any problems down the road that they could wash their hands of we quit doin it.
YOu can go back to using it. We won't tell.
Why was a USG rep on your job?
 
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