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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the correct horizontal gap between panel siding sheets and the flashing below them? I'm cutting off the bottom 20" of t1-11 on a few walls where it's rotted along the bottom edge. I stained the new cut edge, slipped some z-flashing under the piece, and then nailed some new t1-11 sheets below the flashing. But after seeing it in the rain I can tell that water is sitting on the flashing and wicking up into the upper piece.

The gap I used was 1/8" but I'm thinking that's too narrow now. How big should it be? Also, the flashing is made of 90 degree angles...maybe I should bend it down a bit so that the water will flow out easier?

Here's what I did in more detail:
-cut new siding into 20" tall pieces, and stained faces and edges
-cut the bottom 20" off the wall
-stained the newly cut edge
-slipped z-flashing up under the new cut edge and left 1/8" gap between the bottom of the upper panel and the flashing
-overlapped flashing seams at least 2"
-nailed the flashing in place through the siding right at it's top (about 2" above the kickout point of the flashing)
-ran a bead of caulk across the top of the new panel
-slipped the panel underneath the flashing, held firm up against the flashing, and nailed into place with 8d galvanized ring shank nails


thanks for any help.
 

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I haven't done much of this type of siding before, but I think you have to prime and paint rather than stain. Its like OSB right? (if I am thinking of the right stuff) You cannot let water get into it at all so I would leave at least 1 inch. You might even consider using another type of siding that more water proof. :eek: Or at least let a pro do it
 

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Curmudgeon
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What's the correct horizontal gap between panel siding sheets and the flashing below them? I'm cutting off the bottom 20" of t1-11 on a few walls where it's rotted along the bottom edge. I stained the new cut edge, slipped some z-flashing under the piece, and then nailed some new t1-11 sheets below the flashing. But after seeing it in the rain I can tell that water is sitting on the flashing and wicking up into the upper piece.
..............
thanks for any help.
First, post an introduction and
tell us about yourself, and
what you do.
Second, the trade name is T-111.
Last, since it's only an eighth, let it
dry out and caulk it with PL or Vulkem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I'm a former computer guy turned handyman. I love working outside and have done woodworking for years. I've always worked on my own house but working on others is something relatively new for me. I do what I can and call in others when I can't.

Caulking the joint is an interesting idea. It certainly doesn't seem like the right solution for the next walls but it might be an option to fix this one.

It's not OSB, it's ply. The house is covered in it.

I have more walls to do, so no matter what, I need to know what the best gap is going forward. I'm now planning on 1/4" or 3/8" based on reading around. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When googling this topic I find all manner of suggestions. Some say no gap at all, some 1/8", some 1/4", some 3/8". Some say bend the flashing down, some don't. All I know for sure is that what I did doesn't work!
 

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Curmudgeon
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When googling this topic I find all manner of suggestions. Some say no gap at all, some 1/8", some 1/4", some 3/8". Some say bend the flashing down, some don't. All I know for sure is that what I did doesn't work!
Quarter or three eighths,
enough that it is possible to
paint or stain the bottom of
the siding.
Don't make it maintenance proof.
An eighth is a good caulk joint
and it won't wick if it's sealed.
 
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