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ToolNut said:
OK let me ask a dumb question will regular 1/2" stables work or do you need the divergent ones from trim tex? I have used the clincher and adhesive and mud on but not stables.
I use only Stanely Sharpshooter staples. 3/8" for metal bead. Their points are blunt/flat. Other Staples with points will bend over.
Anybody that has never tried them will thank me.

The Sharpshooter hand stapler gets my vote too.
 

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icerock drywall said:
what is the code for the outside corners....do you have to use steel
Sometimes..…......it all depends on what the architect draws up. Detail page on prints show you. Tape is common on columns hidden and screwed on metal bead for exposed.
One layer on concrete filled and two on hollow.

Many systems. Sometimes it was specked to use tie wire wrapped every x amount of inches.
 

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I use only Stanely Sharpshooter staples. 3/8" for metal bead. Their points are blunt/flat. Other Staples with points will bend over.
Anybody that has never tried them will thank me.

The Sharpshooter hand stapler gets my vote too.
We use narrow crown staples for metal stuff, they'll split vinyl though.
 

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Why all the clincher hate?
My personal experience: it sometimes puts them on too tight, i.e. the edges are higher than the corners. And they didn't hold good for me, they could be pulled off easily and I could easily wiggle them around after setting.

This was with a newer clincher, could be me, but I doubt it.
 
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I do commercial work I always clinch on my bead unless the tapers are putting on hydro, or no coat or any mud on bead. What I will do is clinch it on and then back it up with a few staples. Some guys use roll-form-nails, some screw, some staple. The clincher backed up with staples is by far the most quick
 

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They sell a metal paper corner tape... No screws, no nails ,no clincher, also to save time and sheetrock on a lolly column, I shoot the track backwards so it hugs the Lally column then screw just the edges.
 

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Friend of mine lives in NYC. His building is trying to get up to code and he asked me to come in and help him with some stuff. One of the items is a column that needs to be wrapped with double 5/8ths rock for fire protection.

Question is, what's the story with corner bead on double 5/8ths and steel studs? This sounds like a nightmare. Is there a trick I don't know or do you just angle 2" screws?

Or do you use that thing that punches the stuff in with no nails or screws?

What is that thing?

Anybody? I hate working in the city.
You have to correctly lap the layers of sheetrock. If you do that, then it wouldn't be any different than putting corner bead on a single layer. It's not gonna matter what it looks like since it's just for fire rating, as long as it gets spackled with one coat. If you don't lap it correctly, then you might fail inspection. If you have to use metal corner bead then you can always use rock to rock screws if you can't seem to catch the metal with 1"7/8 screws.

You also have the option of using the hydra bead if you want to "hide" the 2 layers not being wrapped correctly. Hydra bead isn't known to hold the best though so beware.
 
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