Converting to Latex

3081 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by bilug, Mar 25, 2005

strofgen

Discussion Starter · Mar 16, 2005

Gentlemen, I am officially hanging up my oil brushes and beginning to only use latex from now on ( other than the occasional oil primer applications ). Besides the risks to my own health, I'm certain that my clients will appreciate the change as well.

Can you please educate me on the best paint and techniques to use? I used to use Ben Moore oil satin on all my trim and doors. Should I now use Ironclad low lustre 363 latex, or would say a Ben Moore latex pearl be o.k. for trim? I've also heard good things about S.W. proclassic waterbourne.

Will latex topcoat ( over top of oil in a repaint ) be just as durable and prove to stand up in the long run for my clients?

I've read on previous forums that these new ceramic paints are thin and have a tendancy to run.

Please take me to school on how to make life easier by switching to latex for good.

Thanks Guys!

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ProWallGuy

· #2 · Mar 16, 2005

A good switch over from B.M. oil satin is their Water-borne Satin Impervo. Yes, its slightly thin, prone to sag a bit, but once you get the learning curve down, its really good paint. It took me maybe a month to really get the feel of it, and I use it all the time now.

I'm still leary of putting latex straight over oil, but many are convinced that with the proper prep (IE sanding first) latex will adhere to oil just fine, being tight after curing. Test drive some Zinsser's 1-2-3, latex and has excellent adhesion to all surfaces.

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ProWallGuy

· #6 · Mar 16, 2005

Yes, very comparable.

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