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Gentlemen, I am officially hanging up my oil brushes and beginning to only use latex from now on ( other than the occasional oil primer applications ). Besides the risks to my own health, I'm certain that my clients will appreciate the change as well.

Can you please educate me on the best paint and techniques to use? I used to use Ben Moore oil satin on all my trim and doors. Should I now use Ironclad low lustre 363 latex, or would say a Ben Moore latex pearl be o.k. for trim? I've also heard good things about S.W. proclassic waterbourne.

Will latex topcoat ( over top of oil in a repaint ) be just as durable and prove to stand up in the long run for my clients?

I've read on previous forums that these new ceramic paints are thin and have a tendancy to run.

Please take me to school on how to make life easier by switching to latex for good.

Thanks Guys!
 

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A good switch over from B.M. oil satin is their Water-borne Satin Impervo. Yes, its slightly thin, prone to sag a bit, but once you get the learning curve down, its really good paint. It took me maybe a month to really get the feel of it, and I use it all the time now.

I'm still leary of putting latex straight over oil, but many are convinced that with the proper prep (IE sanding first) latex will adhere to oil just fine, being tight after curing. Test drive some Zinsser's 1-2-3, latex and has excellent adhesion to all surfaces.
 

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It seems we are all heading that way. It is impossible to deny the trend.
I look at it as a positive trend. If only we could find something that works
as good as Satin Impervo and some real stain primers we will be missing nothing.
Watch the manufacturers accelerate their R&D in the next few years!
PPG's Manor Hall latex semigloss is a great product that can do almost
anything an oil product can. There are some ceramic products that
work great. We are in Toronto and this could be available to
painting contractors in Canada only but ICI's CIL Dulux has some great ceramic
products under the brand Paint Smart. Adhession of these products is
great but if in doubt any super adherent primer like the Gripper or
Zinsser products will work fine.
 

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ProWallGuy said:
A good switch over from B.M. oil satin is their Water-borne Satin Impervo. Yes, its slightly thin, prone to sag a bit, but once you get the learning curve down, its really good paint. It took me maybe a month to really get the feel of it, and I use it all the time now.

I'm still leary of putting latex straight over oil, but many are convinced that with the proper prep (IE sanding first) latex will adhere to oil just fine, being tight after curing. Test drive some Zinsser's 1-2-3, latex and has excellent adhesion to all surfaces.
ProWallGuy, is the Waterborne Satin Impervo look close to the alkyd?
How is the hiding?
 

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The SW proclassic waterbourne sticks like glue and looks just awesome sprayed. Don't put it on heavy...put it on so it looks orange peeley...it will level out and look great.

For prep over oil we use a medium sanding sponge...jut slide over it quick, then wipe down with no rise TSP...and spray.

Brushing is a little tougher, put it on fairly thick and the brushstrokes will melt away, only catch is I've found that brushing that second coat tends to run pretty easy unless you wait 24 hours between coats. Spraying you can spray 2 coats in one day, just make that 2nd coat a little lighter than the first.

As far as stain blocking I haven't found any that work better than BIN, so I'll stick with that for now, as much as I hate it. Avoid SW's Preprite SF-1...it works great but you'll die just opening the can unless you have a fresh air suit.

Welcome to the world of waterbournes...once you are over the learning curve you'll wished you had switched sooner.

Mike
 
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