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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was asked to convert a cantilever balcony into a post and beam deck. Due to the original builder not properly flashing there is some partial water damage to the joists and blocking between the joists at the house. What I was originally thinking was to cut the joists at the house with a reciprocating saw and then somehow cutting the joists back another 2" to accommodate for a new header (nailed to the end of the joists) and 1/2" sheathing. After water proofing, I was thinking I could attach my ledger board directly to the header I added.
Another thought I had was to cut the joists flush with the house and simply put blocking in between the joists but Im worried this would not be sufficient to support my ledger board.
Has anyone had any experience with this? If you did do it this way how did you cut the joists back the 2"?

Thanks, any advice is much appreciated!
 

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Eater of sins.
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Your terms are a bit off, I am sure you mean you would like to cut the joists back enough to install a rim joist and not a header.

The rim Joist will be the same size lumber as the joists and sit between the the sole or top plate and under the floor plate and sub-floor. Fairly standard practice for the states, don't know about Kanuckland though.

Will you be getting a permit for this job? Maybe you do not need one.

Andy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the clarification. Yes, most likely I will be getting a permit as Ontario calls for one anytime a deck is more than 2' above grade.
 

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Nailing into the end grain of the old joists would not be sufficient.

While the wall is open, install a hold down inside the house on the side of the house joist.
Run all thread through it to stick outside.
Install house rim patch, sheathing, Tyvek and new deck ledger, all w/ holes drilled for the all-thread.
Waterproof the crap out of the hole.
Position a deck joist in line w/ the house joist and install a second holddown to the deck joist, nut it down to the all-thread stub.







And you don't have to cut the joists back 2", just install blocking between them, flush w/ the back of the sheathing. Use 4x material for the blocking so your fasteners for the blocking are into solid house joist, not the rotten stuff near the sheathing.
Even if your sawzall cuts are ragged, it won't affect the structural integrity of the patch. Sheathing covers entire patched area.

Attach your Ledger Loks to the blocking. That way, you've got fasteners in two different directions (blocking screws/nails parallel w/ house wall, ledger screws perpendicular to house wall) which, along w/ the double holddown, will prevent any possibility of ledger failure.
 

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Mac posted the right hardware for this application. I'm a little confused about why you're trying to do this all with the deck in place as it's going to be a lot more work to slip a ledger in there and line up all your hardware just right. Is it truly cantilevered or are there posts at the outside rim/beam? Is the deck in great shape except for this one problem?

I usually find that if the builder did a house connection incorrectly then there are enough other areas the could be improved that a replace is a better option. Everyone has their budget though...
 
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