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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So with the advice of many here I decided to get the Fuji hvlp. Great gun and turbine.

I sprayed cv and to my disappointment got these results.

Any thoughts on why and how to correct it?
image.jpg
 

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What is the brand of varnish are you using and what did you seal it with? I used Target 9300 once with no CL100 and had perfect results, when I added CL100 I had results very similar to what you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What is the brand of varnish are you using and what did you seal it with? I used Target 9300 once with no CL100 and had perfect results, when I added CL100 I had results very similar to what you have.
It said it's self sealing so the first coat is the sealer coat but that first coat I sprayed was nasty. It's valspar valguard
 

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It looks like it may be contamination,either air borne, in the varnish or the dust wasn't removed from the surface properly. Have had no experience with Valspar but if you plan on doing work like this I would look into Target Coatings, excellent products with reasonable prices. My personal experience has been very good with all products I've tried except the 1000, I would stay with shellac base sealers such as Seal Coat or make your own from flakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It looks like it may be contamination,either air borne, in the varnish or the dust wasn't removed from the surface properly. Have had no experience with Valspar but if you plan on doing work like this I would look into Target Coatings, excellent products with reasonable prices. My personal experience has been very good with all products I've tried except the 1000, I would stay with shellac base sealers such as Seal Coat or make your own from flakes.
I don't think there was contamination. I strained the coating and also tack clothed the piece immediately before spraying
 

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First of all never use a tack cloth when spraying anything other than oil base coatings.

Bubbles occur when you spray it to heavy or have airflow over the coating while it is drying.

Are you spraying Sapele'?
 

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Looks more like crap in the finish than bubbles. But if that's a seal coat it looks like it is very thick.

Most CV's have a wet and dry mil limit. The thickness usually shouldn't be 5 mil wet and total film thickness of 5 mil dry. But it varies by manufacturer. Waterborne are usually limited to 2-3 mil wet.
 

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First of all never use a tack cloth when spraying anything other than oil base coatings.

Bubbles occur when you spray it to heavy or have airflow over the coating while it is drying.

Are you spraying Sapele'?
You could use micro fiber but when possible I like to hose it off with compressed air.
 

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Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Looks more like crap in the finish than bubbles. But if that's a seal coat it looks like it is very thick.

Most CV's have a wet and dry mil limit. The thickness usually shouldn't be 5 mil wet and total film thickness of 5 mil dry. But it varies by manufacturer. Waterborne are usually limited to 2-3 mil wet.
Yep, looks like floaters to me as well.


Our cleaning process is to blow everything off with compressed air, followed by a tacking with denatured alcohol. We use surgical drapes to tack with because they don't shed.
 

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I just use air. Usually have to go over it twice to get it clean. I brush with my hand so I can feel the surface.
 

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I just use air. Usually have to go over it twice to get it clean. I brush with my hand so I can feel the surface.
We've tried skipping the tack step. Finish is usually rougher than we want when we skip it.
 

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Generally don't have much of a problem with any kind of roughness, usually smooth as glass. I had to use a tack cloth on a benchtop that was giving me lots of problems. It should have been a blow and go job but turned into a 2 day fight of the wills.

I picked up a bad can of CV and didn't know until a few days later talking with my supplier. It didn't seem to dry right. Seemed to sand well but when you went to blow it off if wouldn't come clean. 1st time I used a tack cloth with DNA and it was better than air. The next time I used a tack cloth with H2O and that worked much better. In the end I won, but it put up a hellava battle.

Also, I was spraying a tone coat and it was coming up with so much crap in the finish it wasn't even funny. Even after straining the toner before putting it into the gun.

Turned out the resin wasn't dissolving properly in the CV and was chunking up after being sprayed. So they told me they'd give me 2 gallons for free for my 2 days of fighting with it. And I haven't gotten them yet.
 

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We've tried skipping the tack step. Finish is usually rougher than we want when we skip it.
I'm not a pro like Leo.... but I totally agree on ditching the tack cloth. Tack cloths generally contain wax. The wax is what grabs the dust, but residue is always left behind and interferes with the finish.

If you're going to use tack, then do another cleaning with denatured alcohol to get rid of the wax residue.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, JMPOV, IMHO and all that. :whistling
 

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Yep, looks like floaters to me as well.


Our cleaning process is to blow everything off with compressed air, followed by a tacking with denatured alcohol. We use surgical drapes to tack with because they don't shed.
I'm not a pro like Leo.... but I totally agree on ditching the tack cloth. Tack cloths generally contain wax. The wax is what grabs the dust, but residue is always left behind and interferes with the finish.

If you're going to use tack, then do another cleaning with denatured alcohol to get rid of the wax residue.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, JMPOV, IMHO and all that. :whistling
I quoted my other post in this thread. We don't use store bought tack clothes.
 

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Ummm...what stain did you use?


(please don't say minwax. please don't say minwax)
 

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Minwax should be banned for furniture use.

I also use Target Coatings and have just started to use their wiping stains, dries very quick.
 
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