I've done a number of decks with flush beams, but they are always notched into, or sit on top of a post with the proper hardware attached.

 

What he said. :thumbsup:

 

Notch the 6x6. I like to cantilever to hide the posts and beam, somewhat.

 

If you don't use a beam, you should at least double your rim.With a notch in the posts. I am not an engineer. but I think I could be.

 

I always notch as well and use a beam. Just seems standard.

 

Both levels of this guy have the rims on top of the posts. That's generally how I do them.

 

Both levels of this guy have the rims on top of the posts. That's generally how I do them.

Is that one continuous 6 x 6? Are you using hangers on the joist for the rim joist

 

No, the deck rim sits on top of posts, with the upper posts sitting on that. And yes, joist hangers. Can't get away without them with that type of construction.

Makes for a cleaner look without the extra beams underneath.

 

What are you using to tie in the 2nd level 6 x6 to the rim joist? A Simpson strong tie of sorts? Any particular one?

 

The upper post is simply toenail-screwed to the rim, decking and blocking. With the weight of the roof assembly, you really wouldn't need a heckuva lot more than a couple of finish nails to keep it from walking, but I load it up so there are no uplift concerns.

If we were in a high wind area, no doubt I'd need to do more than that.

 

I do build in a high wind area and we are required to use Simpson type LSTA Z-max for band to post connection, the length depending on whether or not we are connecting a beam to a post or two posts separated by a beam like Tin shows.
There also a whole lot more connectors we have to use for roof framing and such.........

 

The IRC 2009 says you can no longer just bolt a beam or rim to the post(s)
http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

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