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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im looking to set a few base cabinets but a little confused.

i plan to build separate kicks and then set the boxes on top.

so my procedure would be:

level/shim the kicks, then screw the kicks to the studs and set the boxes on the kicks. screw boxes to studs

my questions are,

1. do I have to screw the boxes to the kicks? if so, how to do so without drilling an unsightly hole through the bottom part of the inside of my box? i cant screw the kicks to the boxes first because need to level, so im wondering how this is usually accomplished. OR, does it just sit on top with no need to attach?

since the kicks wont have its own ply platform on top, and its just a ladder style set up, its not exactly going to be easy to screw into the edge of 3/4 ply.

2. do I need kick supports? i have hardwood flooring but i dont want to screw into it.

tia
 

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If your kicks are screwed into the wall and so is the cab above it, exactly where do you think it's going especially with a cabinet and countertop on it? You still tag your cabs next to each other don't you?

You're over-thinking it...
 

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This how my kitchen is done... I have a frame built on the floor, cabinets set on top of the frame and all the kicks screwed from inside the cabinet and same goes for the soffit.
 

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Maker of fine kindling
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We attach the kicks to the bottom of the cabinets from below.

We also build the cabinets with a "nailer" on the outside of the back. It's just a 4" wide strip of 1/2" plywood. We then install a mating strip on the wall as a "hanging cleat.

This supports both the upper and base cabinets in a continuous level plane while you do your final shimming. The base cabinets only need shimming along the front edge and occasionally at the top, along the wall. Then screw through those nailers into the studs. When you can, toe nail the shims through the front toe and into the sub floor.

It works very well for us.


Wood Furniture Room Hardwood Cabinetry



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Room Cabinetry Furniture Floor Tile
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We attach the kicks to the bottom of the cabinets from below.

We also build the cabinets with a "nailer" on the outside of the back. It's just a 4" wide strip of 1/2" plywood. We then install a mating strip on the wall as a "hanging cleat.

This supports both the upper and base cabinets in a continuous level plane while you do your final shimming. The base cabinets only need shimming along the front edge and occasionally at the top, along the wall. Then screw through those nailers into the studs. When you can, toe nail the shims through the front toe and into the sub floor.

It works very well for us.
Are u just setting the base cabinets with the plywood strip onto the cleat that's nailed to the wall then? So basically cabinet backs are all 1/2 in from the wall?

Or are you screwing into the cleat as well?

So with your method since the kicks are pre nailed, you just shim the front if need be? Did I get that correctly?
 

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Maker of fine kindling
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richpuer said:
Are u just setting the base cabinets with the plywood strip onto the cleat that's nailed to the wall then? So basically cabinet backs are all 1/2 in from the wall? Or are you screwing into the cleat as well? So with your method since the kicks are pre nailed, you just shim the front if need be? Did I get that correctly?
We use 1/4" backs with the 1/2" nailer on the outside and flush to the top and bottom of each cabinet. The hanging cleat is fastened to the wall 4" down from the top of the cabinet. Then the cabinet hangs from the cleat. So the back face of the 1/4" back is 1/2" from the wall but the nailer is supposed to be tight against the wall.

We screw through the back and the nailer into studs with 2 1/2" screws. No fasteners are through the back into the cleat. That wouldn't offer much holding power.

The kicks are screwed on to the deck of the base cabinets through what we call "connectors". They are about 2" wide strips of 3/4" ply that are stapled flat at the top of the kick ladder, next to each end and stretchers. 1 1/4" screws do the trick.

Yes, just the front edge of the kick needs shimming as the back of the cabinet is resting on the hanging cleat and is screwed to the wall at the top and bottom of the cabinet.

That last picture you can see the hanging cleat running through the dishwasher opening, 4" down from the top. When all is set we break out the multi-tool and cut that remaining portion out as well as trim the shims.
 

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Having a level box to sit on is nice. Here the floor was WAY out of level so the level line allowed for a easy set.
And just screwed to the wall.
 

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We attach the kicks to the bottom of the cabinets from below.

We also build the cabinets with a "nailer" on the outside of the back. It's just a 4" wide strip of 1/2" plywood. We then install a mating strip on the wall as a "hanging cleat.

This supports both the upper and base cabinets in a continuous level plane while you do your final shimming. The base cabinets only need shimming along the front edge and occasionally at the top, along the wall. Then screw through those nailers into the studs. When you can, toe nail the shims through the front toe and into the sub floor.


That's a great idea Gus, I like that so much I may have to steal it:laughing:



Dave
 
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