I understand the equation - I just don't have the experience to fill in the numbers - and was hoping to 'borrow' from someone else's experience.joasis said:Bags of concrete, X hours = cost "A"
Yards of concrete X hours = cost "B".
I have a fence job going right now @ 43 postholes+gates+ arbors.I've always mixed concrete on site in a wheelbarrow (don't work with it much), but just sold two neighbors on 330 feet of new fence (@46 holes, w/gates & arbors).
I'm thinking that it will be cheaper (labor wise) to have my guys running the crete from the truck to the holes rather than mixing 46 80 lb bags.
But at about what point does it cross over (i.e. it's cheaper to just mix the bags on site?)
mix the batch?I get the straight 'cost of concrete' equation; what I was really asking was - at what point does it make more sense from a 'cost of materials AND cost of labor' standpoint to have the truck deliver it?
I.e. it's faster to have the guys run the delivered concrete to the holes from the truck rather than mix each batch - and thus cheaper to rent the truck - even if the trucked crete is more expensive (i.e. minimum purchase) than bagged (only what's needed).
Anyone looked at this?
The manufacturer call for an 8" diameter hole per post. Using an 8" auger bit on a 1-2 person gas auger, it averages out to about 1.5- 1.75 bags of 'crete per hole.You only use one bag of concrete per post? That's some shallow or narrow holes...
How many guys do you have? This kinda changes the equation a bit.
Take into consideration whether or not your concrete truck charges by the minute for sitting there -
Have you looked into renting an elec. mixer? You don't have to worry about truck time or min. del. charge or the time it takes your guys to hand mix.
Mac
you lost me - manufacturer of what...fences?The manufacturer call for an 8" diameter hole per post.
4x4 posts. The manufacturer of the drymix says this in the d-i-r-e-c-t-i-o-n-s. Where do you live at where you haven't used fast set for 4x4 fence posts? Mars or maybe Jupiter?:laughing:you lost me - manufacturer of what...fences?
An 8" dia. hole gives you about 2" of concrete on the sides of a 4x4 post, less if you're using 4x6s...not nearly enough support for me.
And you toss it in dry and water it down? We build differently is all I can say.
Mac
try this stuff. see the guy pouring the drymix in the hole.....An 8" dia. hole gives you about 2" of concrete on the sides of a 4x4 post, less if you're using 4x6s...not nearly enough support for me.
And you toss it in dry and water it down? We build differently is all I can say.
Mac
No- hab- leh- es- spanyo? Me neither./\ en englesh por favor!
Perfect. the 'all important' crushed gravel for post base drainage.:thumbsup:I may open up a whole new can of worms with this one, but fences I have installed, I have used #2 crushed limestone for a post base and to surround the posts. I learned that one from a company that only builds fences. It is supposed to avoid any chance of problems with frost heave. Yes, I know dig post holes down below the frost line, but the thinking is this: Who's post holes are always perfect cylinders? Admittedly, mine often have a little bit of a cone shape, especially at the top, leaving the chance of heave. Stone would certainly eliminate the rush of setting posts / placing concrete or hand mixing bags. See this pics on this link to see what I'm getting at. I have seen this concept addressed on line on several different websites in the past, but this was the only one I could find today. (Alapaca's...what???) BTW, 1st time poster, short time reader from southeast michigan also. Don't beat me up too bad!
I saw someone use crushed limestone instead of footings for sheds.I may open up a whole new can of worms with this one, but fences I have installed, I have used #2 crushed limestone for a post base and to surround the posts. I learned that one from a company that only builds fences. It is supposed to avoid any chance of problems with frost heave. Yes, I know dig post holes down below the frost line, but the thinking is this: Who's post holes are always perfect cylinders? Admittedly, mine often have a little bit of a cone shape, especially at the top, leaving the chance of heave. Stone would certainly eliminate the rush of setting posts / placing concrete or hand mixing bags. See this pics on this link to see what I'm getting at. I have seen this concept addressed on line on several different websites in the past, but this was the only one I could find today. (Alapaca's...what???) BTW, 1st time poster, short time reader from southeast michigan also. Don't beat me up too bad!
That's not a step. He's using it instead of concrete.Perfect. the 'all important' crushed gravel for post base drainage.:thumbsup:
This is an important step. Thanks fo that!
