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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to reface a fireplace with one course of cement block. Floor is 1# planks over joists. Trying to figure out how to configure first course of block. Perhaps 1/4" cement board under the first course. Also considered metal lathe stapled into the floor boards after filling between boards with newspaper.

Ideas and comments appreciated.
 

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General Contractor
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Just make sure to waterproof the newspaper, soak it for few days in waterproofing solution and hang it up to dry, so when used, moisture will not penetrate the newspaper :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tar paper, lathe, wall tie the piss out of it.
Thank You.

After I've wall tied the piss out of the wall perhaps I can save it in a bucket to soak the newspaper for the benefit of greg and jls :clap:

I'm a wood guy but when you live in the sticks folks ask you to do all kinds of things. Thanks again for your help.
 

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I need to reface a fireplace with one course of cement block.

How far out in the sticks does one have to live where refacing a fireplace with cement block is considered an improvement?!? :blink:




Just joking.......I'm sure there's a good reason........do you mean one course or one wythe? Yeah, pics would help......there's gotta be a better way than block.....no?
 

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DavidC
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Masonry is not my trade, so please excuse the ignorance.

Is it a good idea to install block over wood flooring? I would think adding an angle iron ledge to hold it off the flooring at least.

If a whipping is necessary please use the foam tipped cat.

Good Luck
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How far out in the sticks does one have to live where refacing a fireplace with cement block is considered an improvement?!? :blink:

Just joking.......I'm sure there's a good reason........do you mean one course or one wythe? Yeah, pics would help......there's gotta be a better way than block.....no?
I ripped out some horrible looking stone that was set in 2 to 3 inches of mortar and then brick behind that. It was about 1 1/2 inches out of level as well. The block is to set the new structure out far enough from firebox fit an insert with a flush face.

Also, cultured stone over the block. Tough crowd :laughing:
 

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code says that you need an LVL beam properly supported below any wood supporting masonry. As a rule, wood cannot support masonry, only steel or other masonry can support masonry. But you're in the sticks so.....

Are the joist running perpendicular or parallel to the FP?,
 

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A lot of old houses I've worked on have had brick partition walls built off the timber floors on the upper floors. Even as late as the 70's upper floors had lightweight block partitions built off timber sole plates fixed to the floors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lintel question

Thanks again for the replies. The joists run at 90 degrees to the fireplace wall. Here is the scene during demo.



After demo.



The presence of the old Heatilator style box was the main reason the remod changed from a mere facelift to one that needed structure added.

I have a metal lintel for the cement block run across the top of the fireplace. It is two 1/4 inch angle irons welded back to back. What is the sequence and method of installing this? My best guess is to mortar under the lip where the lintel rests on the supporting block, install the block after cutting a recess in the blocks for the vertical part of the beam, using a bit of mortar on the ledge before setting the block in, then add mortar from the top to insure rigidity.

All comments welcome. Thanks.
 

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is that mess flush with the wall? It looks like the top is but not the bottom.

Is the concrete extended for the hearth? I would bet the the whole firebox is on the framing from the fuzzy memory I have of similar nightmares.
 

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1 2x3 angle iron or even a 3x3 will support 1 4" wall. A double is for an 8" wall unless were talking about something different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Yes, that mess tilts back toward the wall almost 2 inches. No, the firebox is not framed in. Thanks for idea that this project could be worse :)

I am working with 8 inch block and still trying to figure out how to install the lintel I described.

Thanks
 

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Well I would get 12" half blocks and stack them up on the sides, again wall tieing the piss out of them, every course.

Lay a beam course upside down on the double angles.

You would be wise to put some insulation over that metal mess you have there and make sure it is sealed off nice. I have some reservations about pouring the cells with re rod, but you might want to grout them at least going over the lintel.

I would have to see it in person, but i might build the rest of it after the angle irons out of just red solid bricks. As it tapers in you will want to fill it with some intelligence in that 2" gap. If you build it with 8" block you will be left with just filling it with rubble and mud. That wont be good enough on that old metal. It should be supported and tied in somehow.
 

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The method you described is a typical way of installing block over double angles, but more typical if you don't want them visible. If you don't care if they are seen install them facing each other so the space between is a bit larger than the thickness of the block., so for an 8" block (7 5/8") you would install the angles 8" apart, inside dimension, no cutting with this method
 
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