superior walls

I have been building on superior walls for about 10 years now. They are by far the best in my opinion. It takes some extra work on framing aspect and some extra coordination with back filling & basement pour.
On average its about 20% more to use superior walls verse traditional block. I have yet to see a poured foundation wall come out correct.
I have an excellent mason who does block foundations; I have no complaints with his work other then time. I can have excavation & superior walls set in 4 days.
Superior walls also are pre-insulated and have pre-drilled holes for wiring; they also have metal studs on the inside face making them sheetrock ready!
Last year I my company was hired to remove a poorly constructed poured foundation & install a new superior wall foundation due top clamps blowing out. What a mess. When the top clamps are not installed correctly the top of the foundation wall will sag in that area creating a bad framing headache, not to mention the walls were out parallel by 1 ½”

 

So Your trying to say that you have never seen a foundation that was square and level?

Do you always take the low bidder too?

 

Nope thats not what I said, or least I don’t think so
I have built several houses on poured foundation walls, they saulk!
I have also framed on some really bad block walls too
Only had one problem with SW, The garage wall was out about 3”
I called them up and they were out the next morning. Easy out of square fix.
Unbolted the inside corner, cut away the caulking and moved the wall over with a Johnson bar
Re-caulk, re-install bolts and walked away, nor more than a half hour fix

 

Well the last one I was involved with was within 1/8 in square and level. I do notice though a lot of guys using aluminum and steel clip together forms don't do much for straightening after a pour. And if you are comming across guys with even an inch of tolerance I am sure your counter top guys want to slap them.:thumbsup:

 

I prefer cast in place walls to either of your choices. Superior walls worry me as far as water tightness and block walls is
outdated and hasa fraction of the strength of concrete.

 

A couple of issues with the Superior wall system...one, the slab must be poured before backfill can occur, as this "locks" in the bottom of the walls. Also, any changes in the foundation must be engineered...they are very job specific, and so cutting holes, access areas, window wells, etc. can compromise the foundation....and those gravel footings....a recent post here had everyone worried about a 6" thick footing....I'm guessing some of you have never seen a superior footing go in...festerized, you say you moved a wall w/a johnson bar....I would have to guess that your "footing" may have dropped 1/4" at least...no? Just one of the concerns I have with them....oh, plus they take work away from me.....

 

A couple of issues with the Superior wall system...one, the slab must be poured before backfill can occur, as this "locks" in the bottom of the walls. Also, any changes in the foundation must be engineered...they are very job specific, and so cutting holes, access areas, window wells, etc. can compromise the foundation....and those gravel footings....a recent post here had everyone worried about a 6" thick footing....I'm guessing some of you have never seen a superior footing go in...festerized, you say you moved a wall w/a johnson bar....I would have to guess that your "footing" may have dropped 1/4" at least...no? Just one of the concerns I have with them....oh, plus they take work away from me.....

Rock, there is no 6” footing on SW walls, they use a 6”( not exactly sure on how thick) crushed gravel and tamped. Then they shoot the whole pad with a transit making the surface area level, flat & compacted.
Being water tight? SW has a display in there factory that they turned into a pool, the concept is if it can hold water, it can keep water out. I’ll try to dig up a pic or two
The wall that was being corrected was a garage wall, garage walls are typically only 5’ high. Moving the wall an 1 ½” wouldn’t comprise the height of the footing

 

I'm growing fonder of SWs. I've worked off of 3 so far. They are just as flat and level as any block wall I've worked off of. They weren't easy layouts either.

They weren't particularly bad as far as square either. I always square the floor system anyway, so a bit here and there stops at the foundation.

I've never heard of anyone having issues with moisture with SWs either.

Northeast Precast has a plant 10 minutes from my house, I drive past it every day going to the job. It's quite the operation.

 

well, how bout this fester? Which do you think is better, a prefab house or one that you build by hand?

Dave

 

well, how bout this fester? Which do you think is better, a prefab house or one that you build by hand?

Dave

Say no to pre-fab houses! Yes I understand your concerns. SW factor is only 45 minutes from here and far as I’m concerned it’s a local business. I only use SW walls on new construction (if the HO wants the upgrade) or on big additions.
Using SW has its pro’s and con’s just as using a mason or a using pre-fab house.
I have also built garages and decks on pre-fab houses on SW walls. With that said I wasn’t totally cut out of the equation

 

I was picking up material from a jobsite near our competitors new build this week....a 'stone slinger' was there doing some backfill....I figured the footer was in....

the next day I drive by and I see the crane hoisting these things off a flatbed, and I said, "WTF is that?", and the foundation was almost finished.

I did a little research, not much:laughing:, and read that the walls sit on a crushed stone footing.:blink:

It appeared that the SW company was doing the install, I didn't see any of the GC's guys there, just SW trucks.

I have a couple questions............

The offsets where we build are down to inches....we really have to pay attention to footer layouts..... I'd be nervous trusting a company unfamiliar with this community to set the walls exactly where they need to be. Especially on a stone footing. How do you layout the footprint....stakes?
I can see setting batter boards and stringing the property line to set the first corner, but I didn't see any...

And....how are the joints sealed?

I take your word for it that it's a good system......There's a lot of benefits for us with our strict building season and the race against winter.....seems too good to be true.....in a week's time we'd cut out 2 months labor.

The project I'm talking about is garage size, but they dug on Monday, and could probably frame the first floor deck the following week......Wow... what's the catch?

 

Built several elevated decks this year on houses with walkout SW basements in the same subdivison.

Every one of the superior walls had several top to bottom cracks in it around the corners of the openings for the sliding door and window openings for the walkout style basement and and near the corners of the SW foundation walls

All houses less than two years old.

They look like junk to me after seeing all the blatent defects.

They make finishing off a basement real easy unless the house caves in.

When I say several cracks, I mean like 10 and up.