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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'll admit, I am not hip to all the ways commercial roofs can be repaired and i need to make a bid on stopping a 9' x 12' flat metal roof to a cooler for a restaurant and I don't see replacing it but maybe there is a coating i can use? it's leaking at the brick wall and the seams. any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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EVIL GENIUS
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Take a diamond blade and cut about 3/4in into a mortar joint andcustom bend some flashing.
 

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excellent idea. thank you. any idea what to do for the seams on top of the roof?
Flex-seal :laughing:

There are coatings for metal roofs. I don't know anything about them, but one of my larger customers it's his bread and butter.

I'd hit up google. I think some of the bigger roofing manufacturers are getting into it... Maybe GAF has one? Or Carlisle? I can't remember but I'm pretty sure one of them/a couple of them are getting into coatings.

/EDIT: That is the funkiest metal roof I've ever seen. Thing has probobly been leaking since it was installed. Does it seem that way? Some people just do some crazy ****, but that...that is on a higher level. I'm printing that one for the office.
 

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That's a pretty crappy metal roof, it looks like they just took some flat sheets and screwed them down. You could use a coating and polyester in the seams, but that wont solve the issue at the wall. Cutting a Reglet should have been done but for that to work the end panel should have been bent up at the wall. Then the counterflashing over it.

We do some coating on metal roofs but I don't think this is a great candidate for it. It maybe a better and possibly cheaper idea to put EPDM down.

You said this was a walk in cooler, what is the roof structure? Are they Insulated Metal Panels?
 

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Looking at it closer/zoomed in, it doesn't even look like they used screws with rubber grommets. And like GT said, it definitely looks like they just screwed down some flat galvanized sheets. Man I wouldn't touch this unless it was a tear-off, or make sure that whatever repair you do you give ZERO warranty.

That thing is a mess. Like Charlie Sheen mess.

/EDIT: You've got issues at the headwall flashing, the screws and seams. And if I'm not mistaken, it looks like the center of the roof is just the top of an insulated freezer panel. I'm not a pro at them, but I ripped one out once, and it certainly looks like thats a dirty one. There isn't one spot of that thing that isn't just completely ****ed.

It wouldn't be hard for constant repairs(which there will be) to quickly outweigh the costs of just tearing it off and putting a single ply system in correctly.

This building owner is going to get milked. I'd love to know just how leaky it is on the inside, cause from the outside it looks damn near like a waterfall. I wouldn't be surprised if the freezer panels are molded inside.
 

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Another reason that would make me shy away from a coating, it looks as if there is little slope to the roof. Most coatings will not stand up to ponding/sitting water. It may just be the picture but looking at the mortar joints the roof plan is dang near even with them.

To do a proper coating system it may cost more then to remove the metal, install a coverboard and a EPDM. You could always add more insulation if that is an issue with it being a cooler also.

I'd still like to know what is under the metal for the structure.
 

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You start by saying, "I don't see replacing it."

I would start by saying the opposite.

But if you are set on a repair, you could use something like Geocel 2310 brushed along all of the joints and seams. just be sure to apply to a well cleaned surface.

You should be able to get it to stop leaking for a while, but you can't make what's wrong right.
 

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EVIL GENIUS
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go to a roofing supply and see what they have. My dad has a crappy apartment building that has a "new rubber roof". The last owner just had this installed. But they were cheap and whoever did it didnt have a clue what they were doing. We did a lot of repairs to it and in areas where rubber was meeting another type of roof we used something that I cant recall what it was called but it stayed somewhat soft and we used it in a spot where water would puddle and thats been a few years and no leaks.

My neighbor works for a guy doing industrial epoxy coatings. They do floors, tanks that contain liquids, swimming pools. Might need something like that.

Just a thought but what about truck bed liner, that sticks to metal and resists uv.:whistling:whistling
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, so it is a freezer storage for a restaurant and it's outside so i think it wasn't even made to be outside lol. i'm guessing it's insulated. surprised no one noticed they used spray can foam by the brick wall to stop the sieve from leaking so i definitely have to tear that out. The guy has money and owns a lot of restaurants. I'll explain to him there is a right way and a not so right way this can be done. there is zero slope too. that being said, i still don't know the best way to do it. i definitely need to cut flashing in and we are in texas so coatings are only as good as much as they can hold up to 150 degree temperatures. what do you think now?
 

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9x12? Rather than tear anything off, rip some tapered sleepers, lay down some foam, underlayment, and EPDM or whatever the latest membrane is, and flash it. If the budget is $50, then as MetalStretcher says buy some FlexSeal. Am I missing something?
 

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OK, so it is a freezer storage for a restaurant and it's outside so i think it wasn't even made to be outside lol. i'm guessing it's insulated. surprised no one noticed they used spray can foam by the brick wall to stop the sieve from leaking so i definitely have to tear that out. The guy has money and owns a lot of restaurants. I'll explain to him there is a right way and a not so right way this can be done. there is zero slope too. that being said, i still don't know the best way to do it. i definitely need to cut flashing in and we are in texas so coatings are only as good as much as they can hold up to 150 degree temperatures. what do you think now?

The spray foam was painted over hard to notice it! :whistling
I would check to see the insulation on the inside or how it was built, if it was insulated metal panels the insulation may be ok and it is leaking through the joints, they would have just screwed the metal down over the top for what ever reason. If it is wood framed and fiberglass insulation then it's shot. Now would be a good time to replace it, and add a better insulation to the top of the roof, 4" of ISO would be around a R23. you could even do tapered iso to add a bit of slope. Since you said Texas i'm not sure what's a popular single ply but on a walk in freezer I'd do a EPDM with a white coating, or white EPDM, or most likely a TPO or PVC. Since they are white it will not be a heat sink like a EPDM would be.

That would be pretty easy to do, add wood nailers to the heigth of the insulation, install the membrane wrap it up the wall (RTS the wall first) and term bar it off, cut your reglet and add the counter flashing.

what about high density spray foam with elastomeric coating?

Not only no but he11 no. The thing is with coatings most require a recoat every few years, be no different with the coating over SPF. Plus the birds love to make nests out of it. I've also found a lot of times SPF does not adhere well to metal in cases like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's settled then. I'm recommending a tear off, tapered iso, and epmd white. i guess what i was getting at is since it is just a thin sheet metal layer could i not go with an overlay but you all seem to insist on tearing it off so that's what i will recommend. thanks
 

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It's settled then. I'm recommending a tear off, tapered iso, and epmd white. i guess what i was getting at is since it is just a thin sheet metal layer could i not go with an overlay but you all seem to insist on tearing it off so that's what i will recommend. thanks
Don't quote me on this, but I believe an overlay is acceptable in this situation. Depending on what the state of whats underneath. If the screws can effectively attach/hold to the freezer panels/galvanized sheet panels and whatever is underneath them. You're good.

Find out the local (insert manufacturer here) inspector's name. Call him up and see if he will walk it with you, or ask him. But know exactly what that substrate is made up of before you call.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so no overlay right? what are the dangers of an overlay? it's just a storage freezer with metal walls and ceiling on inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i was thinking glue down tapered iso. Glue down TPO membrane and term bar at brick wall plus cut out mortar to counterflash. cheap and effective.
 

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i was thinking glue down tapered iso. Glue down TPO membrane and term bar at brick wall plus cut out mortar to counterflash. cheap and effective.
I know with versico you don't have to use term bar AND counterflashing unless you are getting a watertight warranty/ 15 year warranty. You can just do term bar and sealant.

Now, yes, as a metal fabricator, I believe you should use metal anywhere and everywhere possible. Flash, counter flash, and then counter flash the counter flash with flash. :eek:
 
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