Maybe I'm not doing something right but I don't find this to be the case. I do love 2p-10. But it certainly doesn't seem all that strong to me. Especially on joints that have some leverage on them when you carry them. What thickness are you using?Golden view said:2p-10 has changed my life. I can swing an assembled 3 piece door casing like a baseball bat 30 seconds after glueing it. 10 ounces goes a long way too. Maybe 200 doors and windows.
Thick or gel. My trim profiles are pretty fat, that may add strength. I have not used it on mdf.Maybe I'm not doing something right but I don't find this to be the case. I do love 2p-10. But it certainly doesn't seem all that strong to me. Especially on joints that have some leverage on them when you carry them. What thickness are you using?
Well, since you asked..gbruzze1 said:Collins clamps and clam clamps are not interchangeable. Each serve their purpose. Small moldings, returns, etc., either the 2p-10 (thick) or tb2 Collins clamp and maybe a pin is as good as it gets.
For casing I almost always use the clam clamps. When used with biscuits the joint becomes bomb proof. If you're worried about the 4 or 5 holes the pins make, take an Allen key and back out a couple lower pins. Sometimes the casing is in a corner and won't fit with the clam clamp on it. If I don't have time or space to leave the clamp on while the glue dries before nailing, I'll substitute with a Collins clamp.
After pre-assembly with the clamp, nail the casing to the jamb with 18 gauge gun. I usually do all the trim with 18 gauge just to the jamb, then when I'm done I'll go back with the 16 gauge and nail to the wall. If the jamb is a little proud of the wall, or if the wall is not flat, it helps keep the casing from bending and stressing the miter.
If you're removing 1x4 and replacing with 2 1/2" colonial, think about how that will look with your stool. The ears may become too long. The ears should overhang the same amount the stool projects past the casing, I usually use 1/2-3/4". Maybe add a backband?
If you're doing stain grade, a few things I like to do, even with paint grade. Space your nails evenly, and keep them straight across. I use an 18 ga. on the inside and a 16 ga. nail on the outside. Nothing bothers me more than to see sloppy nail patterns. Even spacing between nails and in a straight line across the casing. Also, I like to turn the gun perpendicular to the grain. My guns leave an elongated hole. By turning perpendicular to the grain, the hole runs in the same direction as the grain, easier to blend in. If you can catch it in a grain, it hides real well. But sometimes with casing you can't do that without getting sloppy nail patterns. But it works great face nailing flooring or saddles.
This is just my experience. Id love to hear if anyone has different methods or if my techniques are no good. Always trying to learn.