I assume you are doing this for the front riser miter? Track saw. You can plunge cut and use a stop so you don't over cut and get perfect accuracy.
pinwheel said:I've not had a stair job since I bought my track saw, but that's one project I'm looking forward to using it on.:thumbsup:
We just did a basic stair with simple pre finished skirt boards and it was fantastic! I can't imagine going back to a cutting guide or trying to make the long angle cuts on my miter saw. I am keeping my eye out for a shorter track, a 32"-42" would have been nicer than using my 55".
I've not had a stair job since I bought my track saw, but that's one project I'm looking forward to using it on.:thumbsup:
I built custom wood stairs both circular and straight for 13 years and only ever used a skilsaw or a porter cable sidewinder for the other miter tilt. I got to the point where I could cut a perfect miter for the riser/stringer on the stringers without paying real attention. Most circle stairs or flairs require over a 45 so made custom wood shoes. I can't imagine using a festool or any other track saw. line it up and cut. Keep your left hand on the left front of the base for a guide
I assume you are doing this for the front riser miter? Track saw. You can plunge cut and use a stop so you don't over cut and get perfect accuracy.
I built custom wood stairs both circular and straight for 13 years and only ever used a skilsaw or a porter cable sidewinder for the other miter tilt. I got to the point where I could cut a perfect miter for the riser/stringer on the stringers without paying real attention. Most circle stairs or flairs require over a 45 so made custom wood shoes. I can't imagine using a festool or any other track saw. line it up and cut. Keep your left hand on the left front of the base for a guide
So you use the ts55 for the miter in both directions? I had never thought of that...
I do have one, so if I can make that work I'll forget about getting two circular saw with opposite tilt.
One bevel you will cut into the wood, the opposite bevel you will plunge and cut out of the wood...hope that makes sense. You still will have the corner to clean up with a sharp chisel or Japanese saw.
One bevel you will cut into the wood, the opposite bevel you will plunge and cut out of the wood...hope that makes sense. You still will have the corner to clean up with a sharp chisel or Japanese saw.
The track saw just makes tasks like this easier and more precise. Today I was using it to cut long small tapers on our cabinet install to make sure everything was nice and tight along walls and floors. So much nicer than a belt sander or power planer. Also for these quick cuts I started using a miter saw dust bag instead of using the vac. Works real well!