[basswood]

Reproduced this old rail profile this afternoon. Three passes with the beading bit on each side, then the roundover, and then I turned the rail on it's side and shaved a 5* slope on the top of the rail from the center of the top down to the rounded shoulder.

Still have sanding to do... and need to run a sample by the inspectors office to see if it meets their notion of grippable (might have to run the beading down deeper). This is a porch railing for a Victorian. I milled this out of Cedar 4x4's... found some pretty good stuff.

 

[flyjaysun]

hope you don't mind but i learn from you. thanks sensei

 

[Splinter]

My local lumberyard still stocks that profile... I get it in Doug Fir to replace railings on the old homes around here.

 

[basswood]

hope you don't mind but i learn from you. thanks sensei

That is nice to know. Thanks.

I'll post a pic of the finished product... might be a while though (another guy is turning the reproduction balusters).

Have a great day,

Bass

 

[basswood]

My local lumberyard still stocks that profile... I get it in Doug Fir to replace railings on the old homes around here.

Wow, that is interesting that you can get that locally. I'll have about $8/lf into milling and $3/lf in material. Not sure what I would pay to order it.

 

[basswood]

Here is a pic of the quality of the cedar I was working with (tight, straight, grain, almost knot free and the rail blank on the right had 21 rings per inch... Nice!) and a pic of the sanded rails (they are not a perfect match, but are going on a different side of the house... I was asked to get something similar to the original):

 

[notillegal]

Nice wood

Nice work Bass, I'm doing a similar job and may just try and do the milling myself. That profile is available at Victorianwood.com, you can get it without the beading also. They will mill it from several wood types including cypress. They also have a bottom rail that has an upside down v profile on top to shed water, but that wouldn't be as rewarding as the work you've done. I learn a lot from pics of your work keep it up.

 

[carpentershane]

Nice work, that is some nice cedar...

 

[nEighter]

awesome. I have yet to delve into routers that much. what would you suggest for a starting setup? PM me if you want, but I would love to start sculpting beauty from wood like you :thumbsup:

 

[basswood]

Nice work Bass, I'm doing a similar job and may just try and do the milling myself. That profile is available at Victorianwood.com, you can get it without the beading also. They will mill it from several wood types including cypress. They also have a bottom rail that has an upside down v profile on top to shed water, but that wouldn't be as rewarding as the work you've done. I learn a lot from pics of your work keep it up.

It looks like Victorianwood is based in WI... only a couple of hours away. I'll keep them in mind. Thanks and glad you get something from my posts.

If you mill your own, the quality/grain of the wood is of course a big deal. Also cut away as much of the waste as possible before routing or use a couple of passes with the router, or both.

Good success,

Bass

 

[basswood]

Nice work, that is some nice cedar...

That was construction grade cedar 4x4... took an hour of picking through the pile to get the good stuff... you just reminded me to bill out another hour.:thumbup:

 

[basswood]

awesome. I have yet to delve into routers that much. what would you suggest for a starting setup? PM me if you want, but I would love to start sculpting beauty from wood like you :thumbsup:

N8,

Check this out:

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/1314832979.html

The PC router is worth the price and the mill route duplicator is a bonus.

I have PC, Bosch, Milwaukee, Freud, etc. routers. Fixed, plunge, combos, trimmers, etc. All serve a purpose. Maybe start with a combo kit... or look for deals on CL. I like my Bosch combo, but others complain about dust in the switch (I don't use mine under a router table... and I also hook dust collection up to my router table anyway). The Dewalt 3 base kit looks good and it offers good dust collection. For big bucks there is always Festool or a CNC (I had to say that for the Greenies and Gus).:whistling

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

Most should probably start out with a PC.

Then you can move to the specialty routers, and have 6 different ones so you dont have to change out your bits.

 

[Hardly Working]

I picked up the Bosch combo kit for a $100.00 a month ago from a lady that her husband died and love it. I also have an old PC for shop work and a Craftsman for deck work.

Cool work as always Bass !!

 

[basswood]

I picked up the Bosch combo kit for a $100.00 a month ago from a lady that her husband died and love it. I also have an old PC for shop work and a Craftsman for deck work.

Cool work as always Bass !!

Thanks, but you know I don't always do cool work... I have a hall/bathroom remodel coming up that will be very uncool... I call it a "hall/bathroom" remodel... because the same space is both a hall and a bathroom... all in one. Oh nevermind.

If the Bosch stops working or won't turn on... just blow the switch out with a compressed air gun... good as new.:whistling

 

[mikeswoods]

Your router guide looks like an improvement over a router table,for heavy pieces.
I know you mentioned the name in a previous post. Would you mind letting me know again?

I probably should just send you a check every Friday and you can surprise me with neat stuff!

$600 a week be o.k.? MIKE

 

[basswood]

Your router guide looks like an improvement over a router table,for heavy pieces.
I know you mentioned the name in a previous post. Would you mind letting me know again?

I probably should just send you a check every Friday and you can surprise me with neat stuff!

$600 a week be o.k.? MIKE

Hi Mike,

Here is a link to the router base (shown with the rail "purchased separately):

http://eurekazone.com/products/detail/srs.html

They make a good product, better than most other guides on the market (except Festool). I use a circ. saw on my rail too. They also make bases for my big Makita 16" beam saw... now that is a serious rail saw.

If you think you might like to buy Festool's rail saw or Festool routers, then look into their rail and router system. I already had a pile of routers, a Fein vac, and a variety of circ. saws to use with a rail... so I went with the EZ guide.

Thanks for the nice compliments. Anything for the good of the cause. Getting some money for sharing info is something I'm looking into... not taking checks at this time though.:no:

Cheers,

Bass

 

[mikeswoods]

Thanks. I gave your name to a furniture maker/teacher in Indiana ,Hope you don't mind. I know you enjoy teaching.
I took photo lessons years ago-Always spend more with the instructor after the class ,on goodies, than I spent on the class!

 

[basswood]

Thanks. I gave your name to a furniture maker/teacher in Indiana ,Hope you don't mind. I know you enjoy teaching.
I took photo lessons years ago-Always spend more with the instructor after the class ,on goodies, than I spent on the class!

Mike,

Furniture making would be interesting to get into, so it would be good to be introduced to the teacher you know. I get a bizarre range of work. Tomorrow I am fitting and antique drawer with a new curved back to fit around a sink (furniture turned into a vanity--might make your friend crazy).

Once you get known for doing the oddball work, more and more of it finds you. It's like collecting things... I picked up a couple of cool old antique fans years ago... then people would see them and figure I collected them. Now they get dropped of here. I do like them, so what the heck... I guess I might as well, why fight it. This all seemed relevant when I started this rambling... anywho.

Have a good week,

Brian