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Choosing the correct nails for treated lumber?

7.1K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  VinylHanger  
#1 ·
I've been asked by one of my better clients to build some basic park type benches.

I'll be sticking these together with my passlode framing gun. I am aware that the current treated lumber can eat away at fasteners, so what is the proper nail to use in this situation.

I usually build stuff that only has to last until the day after tomorrow when we strip the concrete forms off. :laughing:
These little benches should probably last a longer than that. :)

Is the galvanized passlode nail the right choice in this instance?

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
I considered screws, but this "design" would be quite a few screws...

I'm embarrassed to post a picture, but here is a shot of what they want me to match....it shouldn't be too hard for me to meet the craftsmanship.

I was not aware that Paslode had stainless, do they have them in 3"?

I figure to use screws around the perimeter to dress it up a bit. Mine will have the "spacers" flush with the top. This is the look they want so don't be too harsh on me..... :D
 

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#6 ·
I was not aware that Paslode had stainless, do they have them in 3"?
Paslode doesn't have stainless that I know of, I special order the simpson stainless 3" ring shank for decks.

For that I'd use stainless screws. Even our deck screws here have the little green ACQ rated check mark on them. Not sure what it's like in the other parts of Canada or the US, but the ACQ they use for treated wood here is extremely corrosive to regular fasteners because they increased the copper content by 30%. The galvanic corrosion from the copper will eat through normal fasteners and even most electroplated galvanized fasteners/connectors.
 
#7 ·
I would guess we have the same lumber here in the States. I know we have to use hot dipped foundation anchors.

Handling some of this lumber today...I wonder how any of you guys can build with this stuff...one 2X4 weighs 3 or 4 pounds, the next one 8 pounds or more. How does that work out for shrinkage in a few months on a completed deck?

If I were a deck builder I'd be looking at steel and composites.

Thanks for the advice, I'll probably screw this together and hope the shrinkage doesn't leave it loose in a few weeks. :rolleyes:

Actually, I'll probably shoot it and then screw it.

My motto is if you're going to kill it...you may as well overkill it. :thumbsup:
 
#9 ·
Handling some of this lumber today...I wonder how any of you guys can build with this stuff...one 2X4 weighs 3 or 4 pounds, the next one 8 pounds or more. How does that work out for shrinkage in a few months on a completed deck?
Easy, we don't build decks with 2x4s. :laughing:

That can be worked around by pre-drying the lumber, but no one I know of does that. KDAT is a pricey alternative. Face it, PT is an economy deck; you get what you pay for.
 
#20 ·
I had considered that as an option, but I don't trust what would be left of the 2X4 after I counter sunk the nuts and washers. The wrong fat guy sitting on it and the whole thing would come unraveled. :laughing:


I don't think I have ever seen a park bench made from pressure treated wood. Most all are some brand of Trex or the like, or in NorCal redwood. Personally I like to use redwood for those types of projects.
I would have loved to build these out of something nice....but it's what they wanted.

I cut up and assembled one of these this afternoon, nailed and screwed, seems pretty tight, I think it will hold up well.

I might have to use a skidsteer to set the darn things....holy crap did it get heavy fast. :mad:

I'm going to have to do things a little different on the next three. The "spacers" are flush with the surface but due to the round-over of the 2X4's the corners are pretty harsh, I'll have to hit it with a belt sander.

The next ones I'll run the spacer stock past a round over bit in the router.

You guys should have warned me about that....
 
#14 ·
I use a lot of HGD nails. If you hand drive them and the zinc comes off the head, it isn't going to last.

I'm on the fence with stainless screws - they're a little weak in driving, IMO. Stainless nails seem to bend easier than HDG, but that's really only a problem for hand nailing.