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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is for my own house. I am having a new roof put on this week and my chimney is leaking. im trying to remedy it once and for all. i have torn off the siding and put new plywood up and after the roofers leave i can put the siding back up over the step flashing. Should i build a cricket for the top side where the chimney meets the roof. this is not my picture but mine is exactly the same with wood siding on it. i need to come up with something the doesnt look horrible my chimney sticks out past my soffit just like this one

 

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Definitely need a cricket. I did one exactly like that on my house with the cricket ridge moved off center to about 3" from the edge of the roof. The ridge cap on the tiny cricket ridge was also the edge roofing for that side, if that makes sense.

The facia came down the gable like normal and then turned horizontal about 12-16 inches before before the chimney. Then I just trimmed out the little boxed in area with siding and painted it with the facia. Looked great. I thought it did anyway. And no leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
not sure what the roof pitch is but it seems to be about what the one in the picture is and the chimney is about 6 foot down from the ridge.
 

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What's the roof pitch? You really don't need one when properly flashed with a smaller chimney.
If one doesn't do a cricket the water will pond and eventually rust out the metal flashing, won't it?

For the sides I think flashing and counter flashing (step flashing) that goes in the grout joints is the way to go.
 

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No salt here. But when I find steel flashing on roofs it's usually from 2 or 3 roofs ago and still holding fine.
We're close to the ocean and even hot dipped galvanized goes away. On the aluminum some of it holds up much better than other, I think it might be duraluminum but not sure on that.
 

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There needs to be a step/ pans attached directly to the roof and separate counter flashing attached directly to the chimney. The reasoning or this: The wood framed roof will move and deflect with weight and temperature changes and the masonry is stable.

Here is a chimney I did. Aside from the flashing and counter flashing detail, notice the drain space between the flashing bend and the shingle edge. This keeps the water flowing down alongside washing dirt and debris away.

The "Tinner ears" move the water past the tiny holes created by the two pieces, caulking blocks those tiny holes that get very little weather/ water.
 

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There needs to be a step/ pans attached directly to the roof and separate counter flashing attached directly to the chimney. The reasoning or this: The wood framed roof will move and deflect with weight and temperature changes and the masonry is stable.

Here is a chimney I did. Aside from the flashing and counter flashing detail, notice the drain space between the flashing bend and the shingle edge. This keeps the water flowing down alongside washing dirt and debris away.

The "Tinner ears" move the water past the tiny holes created by the two pieces, caulking blocks those tiny holes that get very little weather/ water.
Do you ever have a problem with Galvanic corrosion ?
 
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