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chimney to roof flashing help

4956 Views 18 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  roofex
this is for my own house. I am having a new roof put on this week and my chimney is leaking. im trying to remedy it once and for all. i have torn off the siding and put new plywood up and after the roofers leave i can put the siding back up over the step flashing. Should i build a cricket for the top side where the chimney meets the roof. this is not my picture but mine is exactly the same with wood siding on it. i need to come up with something the doesnt look horrible my chimney sticks out past my soffit just like this one

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We do our chimneys this way and have no problems.

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Definitely need a cricket. I did one exactly like that on my house with the cricket ridge moved off center to about 3" from the edge of the roof. The ridge cap on the tiny cricket ridge was also the edge roofing for that side, if that makes sense.

The facia came down the gable like normal and then turned horizontal about 12-16 inches before before the chimney. Then I just trimmed out the little boxed in area with siding and painted it with the facia. Looked great. I thought it did anyway. And no leaks.
What's the roof pitch? You really don't need one when properly flashed with a smaller chimney.
not sure what the roof pitch is but it seems to be about what the one in the picture is and the chimney is about 6 foot down from the ridge.
If one doesn't do a cricket the water will pond and eventually rust out the metal flashing, won't it?

For the sides I think flashing and counter flashing (step flashing) that goes in the grout joints is the way to go.
What's the roof pitch? You really don't need one when properly flashed with a smaller chimney.
I've never heard of copper or aluminum rusting.
If one doesn't do a cricket the water will pond and eventually rust out the metal flashing, won't it?

For the sides I think flashing and counter flashing (step flashing) that goes in the grout joints is the way to go.
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Even painted steel should outlast the shingles. Steel flashing is very common here, and i've never seen it rusted out. I have seen a lot of rusty plain galvanized flashing, but its usually 50+ years old by the time I see it.
I've never heard of copper or aluminum rusting.
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That's a good point although I have seen aluminum deteriorate in a salty environment.
I've never heard of copper or aluminum rusting.
No salt here. But when I find steel flashing on roofs it's usually from 2 or 3 roofs ago and still holding fine.
That's a good point although I have seen aluminum deteriorate in a salty environment.
We're close to the ocean and even hot dipped galvanized goes away. On the aluminum some of it holds up much better than other, I think it might be duraluminum but not sure on that.
No salt here. But when I find steel flashing on roofs it's usually from 2 or 3 roofs ago and still holding fine.
I have bend steel flashing on deals like this, if done right you should not have a problem.
There needs to be a step/ pans attached directly to the roof and separate counter flashing attached directly to the chimney. The reasoning or this: The wood framed roof will move and deflect with weight and temperature changes and the masonry is stable.

Here is a chimney I did. Aside from the flashing and counter flashing detail, notice the drain space between the flashing bend and the shingle edge. This keeps the water flowing down alongside washing dirt and debris away.

The "Tinner ears" move the water past the tiny holes created by the two pieces, caulking blocks those tiny holes that get very little weather/ water.

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Does the roof leak or the siding?
Simple question to start with.
Do you ever have a problem with Galvanic corrosion ?
There needs to be a step/ pans attached directly to the roof and separate counter flashing attached directly to the chimney. The reasoning or this: The wood framed roof will move and deflect with weight and temperature changes and the masonry is stable.

Here is a chimney I did. Aside from the flashing and counter flashing detail, notice the drain space between the flashing bend and the shingle edge. This keeps the water flowing down alongside washing dirt and debris away.

The "Tinner ears" move the water past the tiny holes created by the two pieces, caulking blocks those tiny holes that get very little weather/ water.
Painted steel and lead? No.

I've been around long enough to replace three roofs that I've done in my early years. Two IKO and one BP all organic. The step and pan flashing used to be mill finish and when I replaced, no signs.
Do you ever have a problem with Galvanic corrosion ?
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Have you checked the flaunching also known as the crown?, the flaunching is the mortar that holds the chimney pots in position, if that’s cracked or broken up water will enter the building.
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