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Changing a 20 amp breaker to 30 amp in electrical panel

23K views 78 replies 17 participants last post by  Diamond D.  
#1 ·
i post in the roofing forum so bear with me. I have a treadmill , a small refrigerator, and game consol that uses a particular breaker. Everytime i turn on the teadmill, the breaker trips. It never used to do that though. I called in a local guy and he suggested upgrading the breaker to 30 amp from 20 amp in the electrical panel we have in our garage , which he did and the problem seems fixed so far.
2 questions.
1) why would the breaker start tripping out of the blue? the problem does seem fixed though.
2) did he need to upgrade the wire to 10 guage in the control panel only or the whole line all the way to the outlet? Hiw can I tell if he at least upgraded the breaker wire to 10 guage?
I never asked, i assumed he did but i wasnt home, I was doing a roof install. He is now away til wednesday for memorial day weekend.
 
#2 ·
Put the 20 amp breaker back before you burn your house down. Put the electricians name on your list of "idiots I'll never use again". Breaker amperage and wire size have to be matched.

I've seen 40 amp breakers on 14gauge wire that had been in service for years without a problem, but that's because the circuit never hit the breaker capacity.
 
#3 ·
That’s a complete hack job.

Take that 30A out NOW.

Why it started tripping I have no idea, but the solution is a dedicated 20A circuit for the treadmill.

There is no such thing as “breaker wire”. 😳There is a conductor from the breaker to the receptacles.

Those receptacles are not rated for 30A either.

Hire a real electrician please next time, before some a$$#ole kills you and your family 👍
 
#10 · (Edited)
Treadmill motors can be anywhere from roughly 2.5 HP to 5 HP. It depends on the treadmill. There is electronic speed control on them, so a problem with the controller can be a real problem.

If it's just a weak breaker, a 20A new one will solve the issue. The sparky should have tried that, and if it still popped, it's a wiring or load issue. Pull the breaker so you can't energize the circuit. A 30A breaker on a 20A circuit is a no no.

Just my opinion.
 
#27 ·
You can't get much more than 1.5HP out of a standard outlet. Theoretical 1800 watts at 100% efficiency will get you 2.4HP, but that's not happening in reality. 2HP I can see in a slow start motor on a controller. Peak HP is a different story.
 
#12 ·
Depends on the wiring. The safe bet is that the circuit was run with 14 gauge wire, and that gets a 15 amp breaker. It's possible that the the wiring is 12 gauge and the breaker was down graded, but I'd still guess that there was a reason for that.
The fellow is probably going to tell you that he "does it all the time without any issues", and that could well be true. But he's playing Russian roulette with the gun pointed at your head.
 
#21 · (Edited)
The house I live in is wired crazy. 2 bedrooms, a hallway and the bathrooms all share circuit #19, a 15A breaker. Probably fine back before home offices. Well the lights would always dim when we printed to the laser printer. Finally, one day I had enough. I thought I would help my wife with the vacuuming by tag teaming with my shop vac while she used the Dyson. We have a wonderful dog who feels the need to share his dog hair everywhere with us, but that’s a diff topic.

Anyways, the breaker tripped as soon as I powered on my shop vac in the hallway while she was vacuuming her office. (And another sidenote, have you noticed that vacuum cleaners come with very underrated power cords more concerned about being coiled up than carrying load because they seem to always get warm/hot).

I contacted a highly reputable electrical contractor nearby, and their sales guy was amazing. He had grown up in the business so he knew exactly what he was talking about. I told him I wanted a dedicated 20 amp circuit to each office as well as one upstairs to the modem, router, gaming room and 2 more circuits in my garage, and they had to be each on their own 20A breaker. I also wanted an interrupt system so I could plug my generator in and provide power to my house, legally, that would disconnect me from commercial power while the generator is creating power.

On the install day, they sent two vans and the guys were in the crawlspace and up on the house, they were done in about 4 1/2 hours. When you go into the two bedrooms that we have converted into offices, you can’t even tell that they’ve done an install except that the receptacle has an orange piece on it and it’s more square inside of the face plate compared to the other ones which have that octagon looking shape compared to the other older ones. The one guy ran actual metal conduit and surface metal boxes in my garage/shop so it has a very commercial feel to it. Extremely professional finished product. The laser printer is plugged into the dedicated circuit as well as some mid range uninterrupted power supplies. Our electrical issues no longer exist.

Best $3000 I ever spent for electrical Work. I recommend them to everyone that I work for. I strongly recommend solving electrical problems by hiring a licensed electrical contractor. It’s nice going to sleep at night knowing that it was done correctly by someone who knows what they’re doing. Your price may vary because I’m on the “mama knows best“ West Coast so there are all kinds of extra expenses out here And I had more work done.
 
#22 · (Edited)
512330

I color-coded the breakers so that if I’m not here and my wife has to turn on specific breakers to run from the generator, she will know which ones to activate and which ones to turn off. As a back up I told her any of the really big breakers that look like there’s two connected, they have to go off. If you look at the top that metal piece forces the main off in order to have power come in from the generator. Also at the very bottom they had to go with skinny 20 amp breaker‘s because they said my panel was full. Everything has worked perfectly since install.

It’s awesome and so easy to switch to gen power now. No extension cords through the house to the fridge.

Again, if you’re not an electrician or your buddy down the street who says he knows how to do it is not an electrician, make the conscious decision to hire a professional. Why chance something so serious and important?
Don't let dollars decide a bad decision for you.
 
#28 ·
Not my property.

But it was a project up here in Humboldt.

Rivers are low right now. Gonna be a crappy steelhead and salmon season I think.
I thought that terrain looked familiar. Sitka spruce and huckleberry. Yeah salmon population is crashing. I love hitting the rockfish from my kayak. Shelter cove is my favorite place to go, trinidad is a small reef and over fished, but people still get some big lings, just not many of them
 
#29 ·
Here MWO is always on a dedicated, Washer is the same. Fridge doesnt have to be but is a good idea. And for god sake dont put it down stream of the gfi... Freezers dont pull much typically, but it can vary greatly. I have 2 that are the same cu ft one pulls .5 amp @ 120v the other 4.5 amp @ 120v. both energy star, but purchased 10 years apart
 
#32 ·
cottonwood. lived in mckinleyville a couple years when i went to hsu. But otherwise been over the hill, but still make a point to hit the coast at least a few times each summer. wife has family in annapolis so that is the most comfortable place to go. Nice cabin to stay in, excellent rockfishing in sea ranch. Nothing compares to the lost coast though.
 
#44 ·

I have a 500' roll of 10g thhn that I will be using for my generator back feed. Its a 150' run from the receptacle to the service panel. At first I was worried the wire would not be sufficient to carry a 30 amp 220v load that distance, but according to this chart the 10 gauge wire is rated to 40 amps. Though my concern is the distance, so voltage drop would be the issue, not amperage. Would it be wise to upsize the wire for this distance, or is it not long enough to be a concern?
 
#47 ·
For anyone who is interested in the facts about this, the Code section is 240.4(D).

While the 15-20-30 rule for 14-12-10 gauge wires is correct in general, there are many situations, even in residential, where that is not the case.

Some examples are aluminum wire, taps, motor-control circuits, A/C units, refrigeration, fire pumps, etc.

The NEC is one of the more complex Codes in use, and while rules of thumb can be handy, you must remember that they don’t apply in a great deal of situations.