it doesnt work. reason being.. the fastener will suffer from shear sag. by the nail having to go through 2 " of foam the weight of hte siding will cause the nail to droop and they can void the warrenty

 

Vertically strap over the foam, then apply the claps

 

JH allows up to 1.5'' before strapping is required

contact CT direct for the support you need
http://www.certainteed.com/contact.aspx

 

a little info http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/tech...df/technical-bulletins/19-jh-over-advanced-framing-or-continuous-insulation.pdf

 

Seems like strapping the foam negates the benefit of the foam. Isn't the point to have a continuous insulation?

 

this has 1.5" foam.

 

i would have tyveked over the strapping

 

Your drainage plain goes behind the strapping and the strapping creates the rain screen.

 

ah..in your opinion..:thumbsup: drainage plane is actually probably under the foam[without seeing where the windows are flashed to this is a guess]remember Tyvek is permeable in both directions and will protect the strapping..especially those horizontal areas

 

even with using strapping over the foam your going to have shear sag .. unless you switch to a heavy duty screw or bolt to fasten it to the studs.. air spikes will just be biting the sheathing and wont even hit the stud.

 

ah..in your opinion..:thumbsup: drainage plane is actually probably under the foam[without seeing where the windows are flashed to this is a guess]remember Tyvek is permeable in both directions and will protect the strapping..especially those horizontal areas

Sure, but using the foam as the drainage plain is ok if it is detailed that way. Putting tyvek over the strapping would be the last method I would use.

 

why?...

 

Yeah, you wouldn't want to nail that strapping on. Screws only. If you drive the screw in at an upward angle it has less chance of sagging. Still, want to use the correctly spec'ed screw.

 

I would also put tyvek over the strapping.

Here is a job I did. We installed 2" EPS and Tyvek over the entire building.

Once that was done we cut holes everywhere we needed a fastener and installed a 2" block to fasten our siding to. Was very labor intensive. Craziest thing i've done in the business. It was a LEED certified building.

This picture show's where we put a block every 12" so the stone veneer could be attached.

 

looks like you did a good job but that looks like the stupidest thing i have ever seen.
not saying you did a bad job but someone that decided that detail is wacked..
i would have used a vertical Z flashing. you would think the way they did it they would be concerned with thermal bridging. thats a lot of sq/ft of blocking and no foam.

 

yea Z flashing is prob the wrong word.
i tend to call everything by some other weird name..


a heavier gauge metal Z flashing, fasten to the studs with foam between flashing
you would have to screw all your product on instead of nails
i plan on puling the siding off my house and doing it this way

 

i think that was discussed when Josh did that job and was shot down because of thermal bridging..if i'm not mistaken..

 

I just finishes a siding job where we used a standard hat channel to hold the siding off the wall to create the rain channel. Worked fine.

 

Galv.metal/composites need less protection than wood strapping

 

Even a thick piece of z bar is going to have little help in adding shear strength to a fasteners. You would have to penetrate the z bar then the framing member.

 

In respect to the foam sheathing, got me there. But with a proper hat channel you can hand a considerable weight in siding with no shear droop.


The panels I attached were 4x9 cem clad 5/8" thick and weighed 120 lbs each.

Unsure if my picture loaded correctly.

 

for residential it probably is fine,for multi story maybe not..idk

 

Here's where we did it http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff464/elementbldrs/WP95000087.jpg

 

not really most sip manufactures recommend strapping

 

What's the strapping fastened to?

 

i know..i know..but thats the recommendation:whistling

 

then again when have you seen a 6 story sips wall?

 

The strapping doesn't need protecting. Putting the paper right against the siding slows out the drying process too. The foam can act as an air barrier, but another one is only going to help. If the detail was to paper over the strapping I would do felt. Still, I probably wouldn't do it at all. Just nothing.

 

if the strapping was impervious i probably wouldn't either,but standard untreated strapping I absolutely would

to say it doesn't need protection..well i disagree