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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Randy, Correct it’s pretty cut and dry on lap board, and what the manufactures now say. But everyone used to caulk all the butt joints, but now that’s a no no, we use flashing and no caulk on butt joints, I’ve never found any that would stay, looks good from the start though. I’ve just never dealt with hardie board and batten, only the vinyl. I initially quoted vinyl, but the homeowner wanted the battens spaced more than 8” and decided on hardie with 16” oc batten strips. He wanted all the battens caulked, but I was concerned it would discolor after a while and coming loose when shrinkage occurred, causing water issues. Cause like you said, it’s made to shed water and not be water proof. I’ve replaced cement fiber board before that was crumbing due to water exposure.
 
I would never want to have to maintain that caulking. That would negate the point of using pre finished materials. I would probably back caulk the ones covers the panel seams. I hate working with Hardi but it is a very nice material and the pre finished has proven to hold up very well.

There's a few macho man randy savage keyboard tough guys but most here are good people and very knowledgeable.
 
caulking cracks, the adhesion is marginal. It will look great for a year at most. Material expands and contracts and so your caulking get smashed and stretched until it separates. It does not take long. For example Im sure theres someone reading this post that has caulked the butt joints on lap siding only to regret it after seeing the effects of nature. A good rule of thumb is if the trim over laps, leave it alone. lap siding caulk at vertical trim and around windows but never the underside of the trim, let the water escape. Never a good idea to caulk the underside of anything you're not married to.
 
Not true I caulk butt joints on LP Smartside 10 years ago and it's fine today.
Installation guidelines of hardie board says not to caulk butt joints, thats why you put the bear skins at the joints. I rehabed a house with that junk siding fiber board triple 5" lap and youre supposed to cover the butt joints with the metal banding, caulked it instead (winter time) summer came around and the panels shrunk and guess what, caulking pulled loose..... next winter it was slammed tight again, and now its pulled loose again. Ive experienced the same thing with hardie lap, researched proper install instructions and directly from mr hardie himself, do not caulk butt joints.

I live where its 40 degrees and wet in the winter and 110+ and dry as a popcorn fart in the summer
 
Installation guidelines of hardie board says not to caulk butt joints, thats why you put the bear skins at the joints. I rehabed a house with that junk siding fiber board triple 5" lap and youre supposed to cover the butt joints with the metal banding, caulked it instead (winter time) summer came around and the panels shrunk and guess what, caulking pulled loose..... next winter it was slammed tight again, and now its pulled loose again. Ive experienced the same thing with hardie lap, researched proper install instructions and directly from mr hardie himself, do not caulk butt joints.

I live where its 40 degrees and wet in the winter and 110+ and dry as a popcorn fart in the summer
Don't have a clue what you're talking about, you made a blanket statement butt joints on lap siding shouldn't be caulked. I don't install Hardie siding it's crap. I specifically stated LP Smartside.
 
Don't have a clue what you're talking about, you made a blanket statement butt joints on lap siding shouldn't be caulked. I don't install Hardie siding it's crap. I specifically stated LP Smartside.
I see your point. I viewed the pdf for the installation of smartside and sure enough, it says you can use use sealant ( ie caulking)
In my jurisdiction all new construction must be non combustible siding, so we are stuck with limited options. My experience with wood fibered siding is that is expands and contracts more so than cement fiber siding.

All materials expand and contract with weather changes, so thats the basis for the statement I made. Any one whos been around the block has had to deal with it at some point
 
Im willing to bet dollars to donuts that even though the installation instructions have the option for caulking the smartside, after you have properly gapped it 3/16"..... in the summer the caulking is stretched and in the winter it is bulging. you are denying physics if you claim otherwise. Not saying you did it wrong, but it is what it is.
My biggest problem is I cant leave well enough alone.
 
from the installation instructions

3. If siding is factory prefinished, butt joints do not require sealant or joint moulding when factory finish is maintained on both butt joint ends, and joint is flashed with a minimum 4 inch (102 mm) wide flashing

4. If open butt joints (no caulking or moulding) are desired on primed siding, joint must be flashed with a minimum 4" wide flashing, factory primed ends must be maintained on both sides of butt joint, and factory primed ends must be coated with an additional layer of high-quality water based primer per coating manufacturers requirements prior to installation of siding."

Have you read the installation instructions? If you did you would have a clue what Im talking about
 
Im willing to bet dollars to donuts that even though the installation instructions have the option for caulking the smartside, after you have properly gapped it 3/16"..... in the summer the caulking is stretched and in the winter it is bulging. you are denying physics if you claim otherwise. Not saying you did it wrong, but it is what it is.
My biggest problem is I cant leave well enough alone.
what is your gripe with hardie board? It is a little difficult to work with but once you got it figured out you can make a house look teats.
I have smartside on my own house and the caulk (Quad) never looks any different it certainly doesn't
t bulge as I said it's no different than the day I installed 10 years ago. I've installed it the same way for my customers. Hardie looks like crap, works like crap too many butt joints I dislike everything about it.

So in short I claim otherwise.
 
I have smartside on my own house and the caulk (Quad) never looks any different it certainly doesn't
t bulge as I said it's no different than the day I installed 10 years ago. I've installed it the same way for my customers. Hardie looks like crap, works like crap too many butt joints I dislike everything about it.

So in short I claim otherwise.
Youve got me sold on this stuff. It is a shame it would not pass inspection in the vast majority of the areas I work. It would only be allowed in downtown areas not subject to the wildland urban interface regulation.

what is the composition of the material? Ive used traditional double lap that is 12" tall 16' wide and it is junk. some is masonite composition other osb composition, but all the same junk, does not last
 
Youve got me sold on this stuff. It is a shame it would not pass inspection in the vast majority of the areas I work. It would only be allowed in downtown areas not subject to the wildland urban interface regulation.

what is the composition of the material? Ive used traditional double lap that is 12" tall 16' wide and it is junk. some is masonite composition other osb composition, but all the same junk, does not last
If you look at the back of smartside it's osb but it's warranty is 50 years it's not the same product from the past. It's much more realistic looking than Hardie and is no different than working with wood. As with any product instructions need to be followed.
 
Youve got me sold on this stuff. It is a shame it would not pass inspection in the vast majority of the areas I work. It would only be allowed in downtown areas not subject to the wildland urban interface regulation.

what is the composition of the material? Ive used traditional double lap that is 12" tall 16' wide and it is junk. some is masonite composition other osb composition, but all the same junk, does not last
Could you explain a little more why it would not pass inspection?
 
Could you explain a little more why it would not pass inspection?

California is the land of regulation and red tape. wildland urban interface regulation spells it all out. non combustible siding, vulcan vents if eves are less than 12' from the ground, tempered panes on the outside window pane, treated cc plywood for eves or box them with non combustible material, roof must be A rated. gutter guards req'd and on and on.... not to mention fire sprinklers inside the house, thats for fires inside, not wild fires. solar is now req'd ..... And thats just off the top of my head
 
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