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I'm not Robert, but...

I have a 1500w oil filled heater in my 7x20. Keeps things from freezing inside until gets below 0.

I put reflective bubble insulation in my roof, but have nothing in my side walls. I run mine all winter long.

This is my 4th year using the same heater and I'm noticing the heat is not quite as good so I suspect I'm going to replace it just so it doesn't fail this winter.
Thanks. I may try that this winter.
 

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The Ultimate Wire Hider
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This is an old Boy Scout survival trick- Put your caulk in a small insulated lunch box and then put that inside of a larger cooler, bucket, or trash can full of ice or snow and bury it completely.

Water freezes at 32 degrees but it cannot get any colder. If your ambient temperature is lower than 32, the ice insulates the caulk and keeps it warm. So the better that you can cover the caulk with ice and/or snow, the more likely you can protect it from freezing.

If you've ever seen pictures of the Florida oranges covered in ice, most times the news organizations use that to intensify the story about how cold it is down there. But in all actuality, they purposely spray water on the orange trees when its below freezing in order to protect the crop. It can be 15 below outside but the oranges are safe and warm in that balmy 32 degree environment of the ice.
 

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This is an old Boy Scout survival trick- Put your caulk in a small insulated lunch box and then put that inside of a larger cooler, bucket, or trash can full of ice or snow and bury it completely.

Water freezes at 32 degrees but it cannot get any colder. If your ambient temperature is lower than 32, the ice insulates the caulk and keeps it warm. So the better that you can cover the caulk with ice and/or snow, the more likely you can protect it from freezing.

If you've ever seen pictures of the Florida oranges covered in ice, most times the news organizations use that to intensify the story about how cold it is down there. But in all actuality, they purposely spray water on the orange trees when its below freezing in order to protect the crop. It can be 15 below outside but the oranges are safe and warm in that balmy 32 degree environment of the ice.
Not quite. Ice certainly goes below freezing, but only after it's completely frozen. Regarding the orange trees, as the water freezes, heat is coming out of the water, which keeps it at 32 or above during that freezing process. But once it's completely, 100% frozen, there's no more "heat" (molecular movement) to slow down in the water molecules.

When my dad raises his tomato plants in spring in Philly, at some point the plants get big enough to be moved outside and placed in a cold frame (a short-walled structure with glass on top - kind of like a small greenhouse). If there is a late spring frost warning, he is sure to leave a couple gallon jugs of water in the cold frame. Keeps them from freezing.
 

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This is the one I use
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Holmes-Quartz-Tower-Portable-Heater-HQH307/203681006#.UrGqG_RDuQw

I think I only paid $40 for it though. It really works great to keep the chill off the tools even when it's in the single digits outside.
I purposefully chose an oil filled one. I didn't want exposed elements where there was any possible source of open ignition. Especially when parked overnight.

When I'm working inside during the day, I have a 30lb propane tank with a reddy heater on top I run.
 

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get as decent size microwave and line it with some rigid insulation.If the tubes are still frozen then nuke um.Or just fill customers sink with hot wated put the caulk in and 20 min later it's ready to use.
 

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I purposefully chose an oil filled one. I didn't want exposed elements where there was any possible source of open ignition. Especially when parked overnight.

When I'm working inside during the day, I have a 30lb propane tank with a reddy heater on top I run.
If you're aware of where things are then it shouldn't be a big deal. It has a tip over shut off and I usually put it right in the middle of the trailer with nothing close by it.
I thought about an oil one and I'm still kicking the idea around, I wouldn't mind a setup that I could use when the trailer is not plugged in.
 

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I built a box out of 1/4" plywood and lined the inside with 2" foam. There's a false bottom in it with a bunch of holes drilled in it and a heating pad under that. I mounted an outlet box on the inside and wired up a cord to it that comes out the back that I can plug in. I bought a cheap thermostat that plugs in to the outlet that the heating pad plugs in to. Keeps it nice and toasty warm in there all winter long.
 

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If you're aware of where things are then it shouldn't be a big deal. It has a tip over shut off and I usually put it right in the middle of the trailer with nothing close by it.
I thought about an oil one and I'm still kicking the idea around, I wouldn't mind a setup that I could use when the trailer is not plugged in.
I'm not worried about it getting too close to things. I have a zone around both heaters.

My consideration is no open unattended ignition source (your heater elements) when I'm not in the trailer. I'm thinking of sawdust build up or combustible fumes from solvents , etc just to name a few.

That's my own personal reasoning for going with the oil filled unit.
 

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get as decent size microwave and line it with some rigid insulation.If the tubes are still frozen then nuke um.Or just fill customers sink with hot wated put the caulk in and 20 min later it's ready to use.
I know it's done, but freezing caulk and then thawing can cause problems. Also micro'ing caulk can cause an inconsistency and/or early failure of the job.
 

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I'm not worried about it getting too close to things. I have a zone around both heaters.

My consideration is no open unattended ignition source (your heater elements) when I'm not in the trailer. I'm thinking of sawdust build up or combustible fumes from solvents , etc just to name a few.

That's my own personal reasoning for going with the oil filled unit.
Gotcha, I see your point. We don't cut in our trailer so there's little to no sawdust in them and not really many solvents per say.
 

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Gotcha, I see your point. We don't cut in our trailer so there's little to no sawdust in them and not really many solvents per say.
Yeah, I have a saw station set up in mine. I try to keep things clean, but as you know, it's inevitable!

I do all kinds of things so I've got all kinds of flammables and solvents on board.

I just don't want to take a chance seeing my trailer go up in flames, if I can help it. I've got WAYYY too much money and effort invested for that!
 

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Yeah, I have a saw station set up in mine. I try to keep things clean, but as you know, it's inevitable!

I do all kinds of things so I've got all kinds of flammables and solvents on board.

I just don't want to take a chance seeing my trailer go up in flames, if I can help it. I've got WAYYY too much money and effort invested for that!
Oh yeah I definitely agree with that, I would be very sad to see one of my trailers go up in flames.
 

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I set a RV furnace in my trailer , is a sealed unit , vents on outside of trailer so no flame inside. On a themostat so when cold just leave it turned on. Works great for keeping things from freezing up , Sure makes the caulk flow nice too.
Seems like a nice setup. How much is a setup like that? Im assuming propane?
 

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Seems like a nice setup. How much is a setup like that? Im assuming propane?
The heater , battery and two new 30# LP bottles and regulator , think I have around $800 in the works. I know that is maybe a little much for some guys , But for me it is my shop on a job and it is important that I have a warm area to work out of. It is way better then having bottle mounted heaters in there. Worked today and when leaft turned it down on low about 45- 50 degrees , when I get to work Monday everything is nice and warm and I am ready to go to work. :thumbsup:
 

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I saw a post from one of the Milwaukee box guys, they put a 12Vdc heating pad powered by a USB battery supply, they kept gloves, batteries, etc in it. I was thinking of this design and though putting a divider wall in a box and attach the heating element to it instead of the bottom to allow for more heating in the box and not the box itself.
 
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