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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guys just got a estimate to put this into my house. Is it a decent unit? Its all brand new construction so hes installing it all. Attic is very tight but says it should fit. Also its a 2 story house?? Roughly about 1200 sq feet total. All on 1 zone. Is it worth getting a more efficent unit? AC only no heating. Thanks u guys
 

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How many months of the year will you be using the a/c. Obviously we don't know the exact details of your home. In general, they are a decent unit. If you are looking for a appliance to reliably cool your house it will do the job. They are the most commonly installed type of appliance installed (13 SEER) as they are the cheapest line. If noise is a major factor, you may want to let the contractor know and they will set you up. For the most part, it's a decent product, but some folks want higher seer equipment due to the lower operational expenses. As always, one has to know the prices before making a decision.
 

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It is a good system, I would reccomend that you make it a Heat Pump that ties into your prefferred heating system.

For the few extra hundred a heat pump & hybrid tstat costs, you will get a very rapid payback. Nothing is cheaper to heat with, especially in the mild parts of the heating season. A properly sized & installed heat pump puts out very comfortable temperature air & a properly set up hybrid tstat will kick in the fossil fuel backup when it is really needed.

To a tee, every AC only system I have installed the past ten years has regretted not doing a heat pump to begin with, which was usually based on info of 8-10 SEER units not properly sized & installed in old drafty houses. The payback is usually less than 5 years. I am familiar with the climate in Central NY - lived there for 5 years
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Guys thanks for the replys. I don't need it to be used for heating, plumber already roughed out the boiler and all the lines for radaint heating in all the floors. At the time if I knew I was going to be putting a central air unit in I probably would have skipped out on the radiant and just used the forced air for the heating. Also My neighbors house is only about 8 feet away from where the unit is going to go. Is this unit that loud? So the higher the seer the quieter and more efficient the units are??? And obviously more money. Roughly how much more $ are they? It will probably be used 5 maybe 6 months a year. Thank you !!
 

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There isn't a correlation between efficiency and noise necessarily. It's just that some of the more efficient models have a more quiet fan motor, or a sound blanket, or perhaps a scroll compressor. The units aren't that loud, however eight feet is kinda close, especially if the unit is going to be near someones living room or bed room.

In order to get the ultra high efficiency, first and foremost, the duct work has to be sized right, sealed...etc. Then, the type of appliance comes into play. Maybe someone can explain the differences in fewer words than me. Ask your hvac guy about the possibility of the higher seer equipment, it might be right for you.

It would not be right to tell you price differences since we all price our gear differently.

You know, it's not too late to go with a heat pump. There are time in the year that heat pumps are a more efficient way to heat the home than radiant floor heat (opinion), and now would be the time to do it.
 

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Guys just got a estimate to put this into my house. Is it a decent unit? Its all brand new construction so hes installing it all. Attic is very tight but says it should fit. Also its a 2 story house?? Roughly about 1200 sq feet total. All on 1 zone. Is it worth getting a more efficent unit? AC only no heating. Thanks u guys
Carrier Evaporator coil comes with a Factory mounted expansion valve to meter refrigerant which is a very efficient type of coil.

An expansion valve is much more efficient then a fixed metering device that many other brands use to meter refrigerant. With fixed metering devise you always meter same amount no matter how hot the house is, expansion valve will throttle depending on heat load and is the most efficient way to cool your house.

Now with expansion valve coil you can choose any efficiency unit you wish, the higher the seer, the quieter and more money you save going forward on your utilities.

Proper duct work with proper returns and supplies is the most important thing for you to focus on. Most system problems are related to duct work airflow issues which efficiency get effected with improper airflow . Have a good reputable contractor do your duct work because it is the most important thing for a good efficient system no matter what brand of equipment you install.
 

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Carrier Evaporator coil comes with a Factory mounted expansion valve to meter refrigerant which is a very efficient type of coil.

They also come with pistons depending on what coil you get. Remember, this thread is from 2009.

An expansion valve is much more efficient then a fixed metering device that many other brands use to meter refrigerant. With fixed metering devise you always meter same amount no matter how hot the house is,

No, A fixed metering deice allows more or less refrigerant through it based on the pressure differential across it. The hotter it is outside, the more refrigerant that flows through it./

expansion valve will throttle depending on heat load and is the most efficient way to cool your house.

Now with expansion valve coil you can choose any efficiency unit you wish, the higher the seer, the quieter and more money you save going forward on your utilities.

Not 100% accurate. If you want a 20SEER, you have to match the correct air handler/coil to the outdoor unit to get it. Just because a evap coil has a TXV, doesn't mean its correct for higher SEER condensers.

Proper duct work with proper returns and supplies is the most important thing for you to focus on. Most system problems are related to duct work airflow issues which efficiency get effected with improper airflow . Have a good reputable contractor do your duct work because it is the most important thing for a good efficient system no matter what brand of equipment you install.
Hopefully 6 years ago, he had a good contractor.
 

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I would check and see what the price difference between a 15 SEER and a 13 SEER is; Here in the land of the state energy police all new systems have to be 15 SEER; they're supposed to use a lot less energy so it might be worth doing some comparing and see if the added cost prices out over a few seasons.
 

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I would check and see what the price difference between a 15 SEER and a 13 SEER is; Here in the land of the state energy police all new systems have to be 15 SEER; they're supposed to use a lot less energy so it might be worth doing some comparing and see if the added cost prices out over a few seasons.
When sponge racing was asking about this 6 years ago. 15 SEER would have cost so much more, that the unit would still not have paid back the price difference. And would probably take another 6 years min to do so.
 

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When sponge racing was asking about this 6 years ago. 15 SEER would have cost so much more, that the unit would still not have paid back the price difference. And would probably take another 6 years min to do so.
I think there's been a big price drop over the last six years but don't have to spec them so not sure on it. I know there's been a huge increase in the number out there and some really high SEER numbers being acheived. With mini splits they're getting into the 20's, extremely efficient.
 

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I think there's been a big price drop over the last six years but don't have to spec them so not sure on it. I know there's been a huge increase in the number out there and some really high SEER numbers being acheived. With mini splits they're getting into the 20's, extremely efficient.
Higher end ducted centrals are getting 21 to 25 SEER. And will take 12 years to break even over a 13 SEER. Unless its a really large house, or the electric rate is really high, like 20 cents plus per KWH.

Builder grade units are not expensive in the 15 to 16 SEER lines these days. And to go from a builders grade 16 SEER to a top of the line 21 SEER has no pay back in the units expected life span if electric rates are under 16 cents per KWH.

A 21 SEER will only save about 40% on the electric a 13 SEER would use to cool the same house to the same temp. So if a house would have a 600 dollar cooling bill for a year using a 13 SEER. A 21 SEER will reduce that to about 360 dollars, and savings of 240 dollars a year. Or about 20 years to break even on unit price difference.
 
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