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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Wait a sec...that job is in where??? and is going on like now. with green grass and the tandom parked with no ruts,,, no rain, no mud. Bull ****ttttola.
had to edit but I was showing restraint even then. J.
Its October in South Eastern Pennsylvania. We had lots of consistent rain this summer, and everything has stayed very green, with little or no leaves falling yet.

It will be changing very fast though....

Gotta get this sucker done !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
John Agrees with the All,as usuall we build a lot the same, also even tho the steel is coated well its still steel and pron to rust. Not good for a showcase Job. But if your still stuck on it drift on over to www.kingmetals.com pretty cool stuff.

For the past few years I have been installing pt posts then wrapping them in S American. To work with in the 3/4''/ 3 1/2'' 5 1/2'' mult I use two pt 2x4s cut down to 3 1/8'' lamed together and blocked /adhesive inside the frame. This way I can use 1x4 / 1x6 for the wrap.Amoung the many advantages to doing this you find about the same money as solid posts, much easier to install for several reasons, a neet look, you dont have to be as pickey cuting the decking in cause the wrap is going over the top and there is enough room to adjust after the post is installed.

You could call it a toe nail but ya thats how I install the top and bottom rail although its a little more complex than that. After you have worked with SA it will tell you a lot about the strength of the mateial's joints. We fasten the cap rail thru the bottom of the top rail,screw/plug into the top of the post.

Black alum balusters have been popular with my Wallets working in a few of those kingmetal ones in the middle is a cool touch also learn to make your own conectors for the alum pipe doing this will put the rail detail price way under the going rate and put some change back in the area reserved for the Litte Lady's new dress fund.

Welcome A Board Rookie!! JonMon
Can a 10" job site table saw rip the S. American lumber with a fresh carbide blade?

I'm thinking that I could build some simple post sleeves, and use standard 4x4 PT lumber for the post. The 1 x6 would be ripped to 4 1/2" wide, and glued/nailed with stainless finishing nails.

That would give me about a 1/4" of play for shimming or twisted posts.

It would look someting like this:

PostSleeve.jpg


Would it hold up? Will the finish nails make it through the wood?

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Brett
 

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Can a 10" job site table saw rip the S. American lumber with a fresh carbide blade?

I'm thinking that I could build some simple post sleeves, and use standard 4x4 PT lumber for the post. The 1 x6 would be ripped to 4 1/2" wide, and glued/nailed with stainless finishing nails.

That would give me about a 1/4" of play for shimming or twisted posts.

It would look someting like this:

View attachment 24079


Would it hold up? Will the finish nails make it through the wood?

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Brett
Better think about glueing & screwing those sleeves. A trim nailer for nailing ipe? Probably will just bounce back hard & leave a bent nail sticking out or on the floor.
 

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John Hyatt
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I use 1x6 1x4 for the post wrap. Griprite makes a trim nailer that will countersink into the endgrain of ipe one bad ass tool. I got the three tool bag for $150 at a trade show.

I use a Makita 8 1/2'' saw with Rousseau stand/outfeed table on site. J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
I use 1x6 1x4 for the post wrap. Griprite makes a trim nailer that will countersink into the endgrain of ipe one bad ass tool. I got the three tool bag for $150 at a trade show.

I use a Makita 8 12'' saw with Rousseau stand/outfeed table on site. J.
I'll have to test it out with my tools as see how it goes.

Maybe I should use biscuits for added strength, and to help keep it all aligned.

The finish nailer sure is fast and handy for keeping everything in place till the adhesive sets up.

I'll need to assemble 17 of these post sleeves, so I need to keep it simple and fast. I don't have enough clamps to hold all these in place if I try to tackle it all in one day.

John,

From what you descibe, the inside demensions would be 4" x 3 1/2". Would it be easier to use a regular 4x4 instead of the laminated 2x4s, or do you need the extra room?

Something like this:

JohnPostSleeve.jpg
 

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John Hyatt
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The idea is to use 1x4 1x6 without cuting anything but the double cut down 2x4 pt posts. The final outcome will allow a 5 1/2 '' cap rail with a reveal on both sides. There will also be a reveal on either side of the post wrap past the 3 1/2'' side where the top and bottom rail fasten.

The posts go inside the frame using 4x4 pt leaves them in the sun while the decking goes down, not good far as movement goes. Two lamed 2x4s have a lot less movement if any at all.

Working with 3/4'' material and with in the 3 1/2 / 5 1/2'' sizes makes for good money.The look of this wrap is a very good upsale. The total cost,to me, is below the cost/install of solid 4x4 S American.

There is also a way to use half of a 1x6, 2 5/8 '', installed flat for the top and bottom rail. Just another little trick the JonMon has worked out.
 

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I rip ipe all of the time on My DeWalt table saw.

My Senco finish nailer has no problem shooting nails into it either.

When I first started installing ipe, many years ago, I used PL adhesive with finish nails to hold down the decking. I did use trim head screws on the ends. I never had a call back. I'm not even sure why I stopped doing it that way.

I don't think that the ipe today is quite as stable as when I first started using it. It may have been drier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
...decide on what type of wood to use? All Garapa? If so, what supplier?

I'm getting quotes from several places, but the following seem to provide the best price:

http://www.advantagelumber.com/

http://abswood.com/pages/index.htm

http://www.efloor.com/ (Used to be Victory Building)

I have not ordered the wood yet, but the largest portion will probably be Garapa, with a Ipe picture frame and stair treads.

I'm looking for a pretty significant color contrast. Also Ipe railings to match the border.
 

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also learn to make your own conectors for the alum pipe doing this will put the rail detail price way under the going rate
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Rk6Jyt3aE the bonemon agrees:laughing:
far as the rail connectors, the decorator rail connectors are the best thing since sliced bread, the only ones you will ever need are the straight rail connectors, the others are superfluous
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkEMQpRWpmk the bonemon agrees:laughing:
far as the rail connectors, the decorator rail connectors are the best thing since sliced bread, the only ones you will ever need are the straight rail connectors, the others are superfluous

How do you use the straight rail connectors with a railing that is on a 45 degree angle?
 

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John Hyatt
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I tell you boneMon, that song is singing my Life, the only thing missing is the Harley! I never drilled the holes when the pipe came out me the Clemens and the Boys figured out making our own conectors on another site years ago.

I have never done a 12&12 pitch with the rail but hell why not??:rolleyes:

Doing stairs ya just cut the conectors,cut the pipe, bang bang install the detail as a unit. No S American order is complete with out a call to EastTeak. JonMon
 

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John Hyatt
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Any other of you guys think the Bim is asking a lot of silly questions for a man that framed a project like that, in PA, with all the wet weather,dont even know about table saws or stairs?? I am thinking a sneeky ho. J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Any other of you guys think the Bim is asking a lot of silly questions for a man that framed a project like that, in PA, with all the wet weather,dont even know about table saws or stairs?? I am thinking a sneeky ho. J.
The crappy weather started yesterday, hence, I'm sitting here on the puter, and not making any progress on the deck.

Who asked about stairs??

BTW, thanks for all the advise on the railings. I'm ordering the lumber today.

Its much more interesting to use REAL lumber, instead of all the crap I've used in the past. All the supply yards around here no nothing about S. american hardwoods...they simply try to steer you towards some plastic garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Well, I finally received the shipment of lumber, after bouncing between different suppliers, and different wood.

Sure is heavy !!! :) My trailer is sitting on the axles right now.

It looks like I have a window of good weather here in South East PA, and I'm trying to decide if I should leave the wood bundled on my 20' trailer, under a tarp, or should I be storing it in an attached (unheated) garage??

Its a mix of Garapa and Ipe, and it looks rather wet at this point. The Garapa more than the Ipe.

I'd appreciate any insight or advice.

Thanks,

-B
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
All, All, All,, you got to get that Texas strong hand under control!!!

Say 1 1/2'' x 1 1/2''stock could be redwood,pt,cedar say 3' long, on the drill press you dont go all the way thru leave a 1/2'' or so. Run it thru the table saw cut side toward the fence. The little darlings fall right into your hands.

One of the high points using the wood conectors>> you can glue them in<< I have had little kids unscrew the plastic factory conectors A real pain to fix.

Slow......Down

RE Read,

Again.....

When your installing them just snug them up with the impact,just enough to set the glue thats all you need.

You Texas Boys!!! :laughing: JonMon

So its raining outside and I had some scrap Ipe to play with today...

I decided to fashion my own rail connectors, as a alternative to the plastic Deckorators ( http://www.bristolvalley.com/catalog.asp?prodid=471336&showprevnext=1 )

I have 17 post sleeves (4 connectors per) to install, so I need a method that is relatively quick, and strong.

I'll glue it up with some Tightbond III just to be sure nothing moves around, and use 2 of the brown SS trim head screws on each side and 2 into the end grain of the 2x4, which are counter sunk with a Smartbit.

Here is my quick mock-up, which feels really strong...

(The production version will be cut a bit more accurate, and I'll hit it with the orbital sander before install)

IMG_0137[1].jpg

IMG_0138.jpg
 
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