Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
O.K here goes I am doing a kitchen remodel and radiant heat install BUT ... The homeowner wants more space. They want to push one wall of the kitchen out about 3.5 foot, the wall is the gable wall but there is an attached garage so it already weather tight. One of their friends (a backyard DIY pro??) says it’s a non load bearing wall except for the outside walls studs/jacks. This much I agree with but he is telling them no extra support is needed no headers. Another guy says a header is needed. So here I am a confused Plumber stuck in the middle who has never run across this type of issue?? How should it be done correctly? It is a single level house the span that would be eliminated would be 12’.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,425 Posts
"PLEASE COMPLETE YOUR PROFILE, AND CONTINUE TO THE INTRO PAGE AND TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE, THANKYOU AND WELCOME TO CT"...You should not allow yourself to be put in the middle, tell them to hire a competant contractor. GMOD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
177 Posts
PLEASE COMPLETE YOUR PROFILE, AND CONTINUE TO THE INTRO PAGE AND TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF AND YOUR PROFESSIONAL EXPERIENCE, THANKYOU AND WELCOME TO CT...You should not allow yourself to be put in the middle, tell them to hire a competant contractor. GMOD
Sheesh, he joined two years ago, long before this obsession with the introductions started, and is just now getting a thank you and welcome. I hope to be welcomed to the forum sometime in 2016.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
Anything can be done. Somebody just has to pay for it.
To find out how much someone will have to pay, As mentioned before, best to hire an engineer.
Good luck,
Mike
 

·
Thom
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
plumber, the job is a little more complex than it might seem.

When you move the wall you will need to deal with the lookouts (creating the eaves) electric run into the outside wall, water, sewer, plumbing vents, exhaust vents, ....

The real problem here is what we don't know. Not being experienced at this, you don't know what you don't know.

It probably doesn't require engineering or even an architect. It does require a trade professional who is competent in that type of work. There are many GC's who do remodeling who could do this for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
I agree with having an engineer look at it. I imagine that you are going to have to run floor joists perpendicur to the gable, from 10 feet or so inside the existing structure and cantilevered out beyond the existing structure. I don't see any other way you could support the load.

Because you'll be redoing the ceilings below when you are securing the longer floor joists, you might get a better bang for the buck by installing a foundation extension and just building an addition from the ground up.

A lot of work to gain 3 feet!
 

·
Sean
Joined
·
5,532 Posts
Sheesh, he joined two years ago, long before this obsession with the introductions started, and is just now getting a thank you and welcome. I hope to be welcomed to the forum sometime in 2016.
Well then welcome to CT - Happy Now? :jester:

Actually this has been going on for quite a while and is actually good internet forum etiquette - not that you or I ever posted an intro :whistling
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
O.K here goes I am doing a kitchen remodel and radiant heat install BUT ... The homeowner wants more space. They want to push one wall of the kitchen out about 3.5 foot, the wall is the gable wall but there is an attached garage so it already weather tight. One of their friends (a backyard DIY pro??) says it’s a non load bearing wall except for the outside walls studs/jacks. This much I agree with but he is telling them no extra support is needed no headers. Another guy says a header is needed. So here I am a confused Plumber stuck in the middle who has never run across this type of issue?? How should it be done correctly? It is a single level house the span that would be eliminated would be 12’.
Is the garage roof at the same height as the existing roof? If so this type of framing is done alot. You are stealing space from the garage and framing the joists on top of the garage floor. If the ceiling joists are running parallel with the gable wall you don't need a beam or header where the existing wall was.

There are many options, but you still need an Architect or Engineer in there to design this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow you guys are quick and thanks!! I guess I fall into a broad spectrum I a plumber for the most part but I get involved in a few kitchen remodels and general framing projects from time to time, ohm and am located in N.Y. The "addition" will only have a 7' piece of baseboard heat in it no other plumbing or waste lines and 2 outlets. There is a foundation in the garage and yes the garage roof line is at the same height but there is no ceiling in the garage floor to roof 13' is tall. The house had a 3 step rise from the garage entrance. I talked to the H owners this morning and agreed with you guys and said too many answers for me to be comfortable without an engineering plan (just in case good money spent) put them in touch with a friend.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top