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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
Just wanted to update you all,
Some of you may know that i have made my own butt splices, and they are working great, they are saving time, material (rock), mud and its creating a very clean and prime product.
The cost to create each one is approx $2.00 rough and dirty, but the savings is approx $10.00 for each one used. The average house we will use approx 10.

J
 

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Butt Expert
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278 Posts
Where are the pics or are they on your website?
I was a skeptic at first but I think your onto something if it doesn't take too long to build. :thumbsup:
 

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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i will get some up...starting a job tomorrow and will be using them...
 

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4,732 Posts
I'm trying my first on a job now.. Ever used them w/ 5/8 firerock? Several screws later, the first one looks ok, nice recess

I think I need to wet the face before pulling up the butt:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
u dont need to wet the board, just make sure that you are away from the truss ( split the diffrence between the truss or joist with the joint) when you are screwing the butt joint, push up with one hand and screw with the other. if you dont have an auto feed gun then, start from one side of the joint and put screws in lightly, and as you get closer to the other side of the butt joint you are screwing in all the way, then go back and hit the first screws again to suck them in. The odd time you will have a bit of a problem with the joint being sucked up, and the 5/8 or 1/2 rock wanting to break or pop. move your screws away approc 1" from the joint. and slowly suck the joint in.
I am able to tape, coat with 10" and coat with 12", sand and done....the box's are run on #1 setting on the 10" and # 3 on the 12".
once in a blue moon i will go back and feel the joint....sometimes if a stud is crown'd you will have to hit the joint again with the 12" on a 4 setting. When coating the butts you do not have to feather out the joint. simply run the box down the center. DONE
 

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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahh one more thing....when you install the butt splices, they should be 52" to 54" long...this will enable you to anchor the butt splice to each adjacent row, which in turn makes for a stronger joint. If you look back at the butt joint, you will notice that it is up considerably to the adjacent row. Shoot a couple of screws on the adjacent row, to level out the joint. Once you put them in you will see exactly what i am talking about. This also works the same for walls...
I will be taking my camera to work on monday, and will document with some pics for you all.
 

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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i have the pics, but am short on patience for the website to download them....i will get it though
 

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Profit is not dirty.
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487 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Still working well, and would not do another job without them
 

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Vendor
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Merl Larson Washroom Accessory Specialist

I'm sure all the pictures will explain it for you...:whistling
Saw your websites and your work looks greta.
I am not a drywaller and was just interested to know what a butt splice was. I was particularly interested in your comment that these cost $10.00 and you have made your own for $2.00.

I still dont know what they are and what they look like.
 

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General Contractor
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3,444 Posts
I've been preaching Butt Boards here for a year or two.

I finally just gave up, and am content to let people fight the Butt Bumps all they want.
 

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Super Moderator
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I find I like a few more screws than shown in the picture.
I was thinking the samething when I saw that Willie. :thumbsup:

-Paul
 
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