[3rd4thGEN]

Underpin it.

Jack up with 3 -4 dead legs and
wedges...
Install actual frost footings under new cripples' location . With wind straps....
Build new wall out of 2x8" or 2x6" material if u aren't a cheap fatherless person.
I d use 14" lvls spaced to 7.5" apart for lintel, wind straps from cripple to gable studs.
Add 24" + over hang for less water damage / reduced heat load... reduced water intrusion. Use 2x10- for door opener mounts from floor to rafter for added wind capacity.
Burn old crapp.
Surface mount rim joist for ceiling joists attach with metal hangers.

EditedX2

 

[Leo G]

Everyone is forgetting the obvious go to-explosives. July Fourth is right around the corner, win, win….

Tom

Yes yes. Explosives and video.

 

[hdavis]

The tannerite project.....

 

[Waskin]

The tannerite project.....

Binary explosive?
muddled way worse.
or I missed the message.

 

[Waskin]

Underpin it.

Jack up with 3 -4 dead legs a wedges...
Install actual frost footings under new cripples' location . With wind straps....
Build new wall out of 2x8" or 2x6" material u aren't a cheap fatherless person.
I d use 14" lvls spaced to 7.5" apart for lintel, wind straps from cripple to gable studs.
Add 24" + over hang for less water damage / reduced heat load... reduced water intrusion. Use 2x10- for door opener mounts from floor to rafter for added wind capacity.
Burn old crapp.
Surface mount rim joist for ceiling joists attach with metal hangers.

For 350

 

[3hammers]

Got a 1941 garage door opening with a semi decent sag. About an 1 1/4 diff give or take.

2x4 true lumber but about
3 3/4 average width.

it’s about 91.5 -92” tall right now. Needs to be 84”

the horizontal dimension is 179 - 179.5”
It needs to be 168”

Debating to get solid Doug fir and mill the header. Or glue & screw 2x4’s for a build up.
Also about jacking straight the existing framing and best way to go about it and be able to build up or put new header in place.
as of now there is no header. Just doubled top plate of a gable end.

I don’t wanna stretch the girl out too badly so I might just work with the sag and give a perfectly level and plum opening. But it also make life pretty easy if I just got it more straight.
Old V rustic lap siding, probably direct to framing.

Thinking the best thing is to just run some extra sticks on the inside for a temp wall if I can somehow connect it to straighten out the existing plate.

Certainly an engineering question. Are you getting a permit? If so, pretty sure they’d like to see the calc’s on your remedy.

5-1/4” x14 LVL will probably be the result with additional trimmers, strapping, anchoring and shear from the corners, etc.

But then again, I’m not a PE or structural engineer

 

[Waskin]

It’s all good🤐

crazy how heavy original door was, with an opening of almost 15’ and no actual header.
But it is a gable, and a garage door bears its weight on the track hinges which attach to the studs.

Leo nailed it though. 1x trim was acting like a trimmer (jack) stud.

The engineer I know always starts his letter with a clause how this info is strictly between us, and how it’s all just a guessing game basically.

then in person he’s just like,
“you know what your doing”

I still can’t believe the state gave me a license after first try.

Now opinions on trim?…
I’m keeping the old growth redwood. Hope to make some nice little shelves or something.

 

[Leo G]

Ya, usually if you and the inspector get along it goes that way. He'll inspect your work thoroughly the first couple time and after he gets a feel of how you do your thing it can either be a breeze or hell to pay from then on in.

 

[Nobbler]

I do a lot of work like this and my advice would be to leave it alone if the sag wasn't a structural liability and it was less than 1.25"

Just scabbing on some reinforcement means you're jacking, removing the making shift storage system joists, and then throwing about $200 in screws at it.

You won't get much depth with the room you have there to expand the depth and commonly used and available materials (2x8 for example) would just creep close to what you have before. Glue -- I've experimented with glue on built up columns and one nice smack of a hammer and the bond is fractured. I'm not quite the firm believer in glue usage anymore, but I'm open to changing to mind.

If it's just cosmetic, square it like you would finish drywall-- fake it with some shimming.

Replacing the double 2x's would mean tearing out everything around it. It's kind of a make-work job.